Rockfax Description
A mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! It is a hard E1 though so make sure you have a bit in reserve for the stiff finish. Climb into the cave (possible belay if the tide threatens and it can also be reached by abseil if the tide is in). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. Climb back above into the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top. It is possible to traverse left from where the crack closes into the finishing gully which is a bit easier - HVS 5a. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! There are two possible starts - one is easier and starts from the cave (this is also the high tide option). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. The second option (better & slightly harder) climbs the right edge of the chimney from the boulders, joining the cave start where it emerges from the depths. From there, climb to the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top, taking care with the top out.
FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 26/Aug/1970.
Ticklists
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 2021 , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 17 Nov |
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βeta: I think the chimney start (which is a fun bridging/squirming problem if you like that sort of thing) was the original route (I\'ve seen an old photo of Jim Perrin doing it that way) and is the way described in the CC guides - if you do it this way then it makes sense to do it in two pitches as gear in the chimney would give bad rope drag. Climbing the right arete and doing it one big pitch is more conventionally enjoyable! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think the chimney start (which is a fun bridging/squirming problem if you like that sort of thing) was the original route (I've seen an old photo of Jim Perrin doing it that way) and is the way described in the CC guides - if you do it this way then it makes sense to do it in two pitches as gear in the chimney would give bad rope drag. Climbing the right arete and doing it one big pitch is more conventionally enjoyable! |
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| Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Classic downgrade but understanable with Coney climbing Brazen Buttress straight after to give perspective. Defo link P1 and P2 in truth. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Classic downgrade but understanable with Coney climbing Brazen Buttress straight after to give perspective. Defo link P1 and P2 in truth. |
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| Paul Sagar | 5 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Don’t go up the chimney for more than a couple of meters - come out on to the face at the first available opportunity. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don’t go up the chimney for more than a couple of meters - come out on to the face at the first available opportunity. |
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| Mark Leicester | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Climbing the right arête of cave/chimney more in keeping with the rest of the climb, avoids grovelling about and makes this an even better pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbing the right arête of cave/chimney more in keeping with the rest of the climb, avoids grovelling about and makes this an even better pitch. |
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| kenhansard | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: 8star with Mike trebble | βeta? | |
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βeta: 8star with Mike trebble |
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| GeorgT | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness |
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| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top. | ||
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βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Chimera
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Penally East)