UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

45m.

Rockfax Description
A mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! Have a bit in reserve for the stiff finish. Climb into the cave (possible belay if the tide threatens and it can also be reached by abseil if the tide is in). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. Climb back above into the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top. It is possible to traverse left from where the crack closes into the finishing gully which is a bit easier - HVS 5a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! There are two possible starts - one is easier and starts from the cave (this is also the high tide option). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. The second option (better & slightly harder) climbs the right edge of the chimney from the boulders, joining the cave start where it emerges from the depths. From there, climb to the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top, taking care with the top out.

FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 26/Aug/1970.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 2021 , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Ticklist , Pembs Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 7 Jan Show βeta
βeta: I think the chimney start (which is a fun bridging/squirming problem if you like that sort of thing) was the original route (I've seen an old photo of Jim Perrin doing it that way) and is the way described in the CC guides - if you do it this way then it makes sense to do it in two pitches as gear in the chimney would give bad rope drag. Climbing the right arete and doing it one big pitch is more conventionally enjoyable!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the chimney start (which is a fun bridging/squirming problem if you like that sort of thing) was the original route (I've seen an old photo of Jim Perrin doing it that way) and is the way described in the CC guides - if you do it this way then it makes sense to do it in two pitches as gear in the chimney would give bad rope drag. Climbing the right arete and doing it one big pitch is more conventionally enjoyable!
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Classic downgrade but understanable with Coney climbing Brazen Buttress straight after to give perspective. Defo link P1 and P2 in truth.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic downgrade but understanable with Coney climbing Brazen Buttress straight after to give perspective. Defo link P1 and P2 in truth.
Paul Sagar 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t go up the chimney for more than a couple of meters - come out on to the face at the first available opportunity.
βeta?
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βeta: Don’t go up the chimney for more than a couple of meters - come out on to the face at the first available opportunity.
Mark Leicester 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing the right arête of cave/chimney more in keeping with the rest of the climb, avoids grovelling about and makes this an even better pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing the right arête of cave/chimney more in keeping with the rest of the climb, avoids grovelling about and makes this an even better pitch.
kenhansard 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 8star with Mike trebble
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 8star with Mike trebble
GeorgT 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness
huwtj 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top.
Show beta
βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 164
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 151
Votes cast 141
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deep Space

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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