Rockfax Description
Another mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! It is a hard E1 though so make sure you have a bit in reserve for the stiff finish. Climb into the cave (possible belay if the tide threatens and it can also be reached by abseil if the tide is in). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. Climb back above into the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top. It is possible to traverse left from where the crack closes into the finishing gully which is a bit easier - HVS 5a. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 26/Aug/1970.
Ticklists
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Extreme 2018, Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, 3 star Pembroke e1., Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kenhansard | 20 Sep |
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βeta: 8star with Mike trebble | βeta? | |
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βeta: 8star with Mike trebble |
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| GeorgT | 1 Sep |
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βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be aware of some loose blocks in-situ after moving out from the chimney. Could be easily pulled out to avoid any future uneasiness |
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| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top. | ||
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βeta: An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres. |
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Logged Ascents
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Zodiac
Grade: E1 5b ***(St. Govan's Head)