UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, R.Pearce Sep/1972.

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , E is for Easy... Right? , Best of the rest and the ones that got away

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User Date Notes
Ariegeois 1 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake come away in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best at MCK!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake come away in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best at MCK!
plant_based_tommo 3 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section.
Show beta
βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section.
huwtj 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall.
salancaster 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'!

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Votes cast 68
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High 5b
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Votes cast 64
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blond Bombshell

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Penally East)

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