Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a small niche at the base of the arete. Climb into this then step left onto the wall which is followed easily to some large ledges. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, R.Pearce Sep/1972.
Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , E is for Easy... Right? , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Cianchi's Hit List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ariegeois | 15 Mar |
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βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake came away years ago in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best, if not the best, at MCK! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The top section used to be quite an awkward flake crack right on the arete. The flake came away years ago in a winter storm. The route is still much the same grade, but the climbing's a bit more elegant now. Definitely one of the best, if not the best, at MCK! |
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plant_based_tommo | 3 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section. | ||
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βeta: good varied climbing with just enough gear to keep things pleasant in the upper section. |
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huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall. | βeta? | |
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βeta: According to the Climbers Club update this is though to be more like E3 5c/6a since the Crithmum rockfall. |
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salancaster | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not E2, I thought it fairly hard and pretty sustained - although I climbed the top arete on the left all the way. It took some time and my belayer got wet! I was quite suprised to find no crack in the top wall unaware that the right side had 'dropped off'! |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)