UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular way of finishing Heart of Darkness is to climb direct from the arete belay at the end of pitch 1 of Heart of Darkness to gain the crack of New Morning. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, J.Kingston 1971.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Big Routes 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lovely climbing. airy and exposed but very easy traverse with a rather strenny crack which in my book e1 as it pretty sustained. cc guide is spot on once again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lovely climbing. airy and exposed but very easy traverse with a rather strenny crack which in my book e1 as it pretty sustained. cc guide is spot on once again.
Tony Holdsworth 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An utterly superb trip this combination.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An utterly superb trip this combination.
John2 13 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 3 stars are not enough for this route. The New Morning crack is possibly sustained enough to be worth E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 stars are not enough for this route. The New Morning crack is possibly sustained enough to be worth E1.

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Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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