UKC

115m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
115m. One of the finest routes on these islands and a must-do for anyone visiting, this climbs a line parallel and to the right of The Priest, up an amazing series of corners overlooking The Great Arch. Start at The Priest belay.
1. 40m 5b Up the right edge of the slab, passing to the right of a larger ledge to reach a small block about 10m above. Swing wildly round the overhanging right arĂȘte into the base of a hanging groove with a distinctive projecting ledge in its base. Up the groove and the larger continuation above in an excellent position to exit right onto a shattered ledge, level with the lip of the great roof of the arch.
2. 20m 5a From the edge of the roof climb up and right across an immaculate wall to enter a small right-facing groove. This becomes a ramp. Belay at its top, below the main corner-line.
3. 30m 5c Climb the superb corner with hard moves through its steepest section. Up the easy corner above to a roof and exit left onto a large ledge below the final corner.
4. 25m 5a The excellent final corner to the capping roof. Exit right in a great position.
FA K.Howett, G.E.Little, 24 Jun 1996 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Pabbay Power List of Justice , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Top 5 E2's in the UK? , Trad on every UK island , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Hard Rock 2020 , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Gliss Mission , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Pabbay and Mingulay , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Cianchi's Hit List , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
trying.soft 23 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: For rope drag, we found that it\'s probably best to split pitch 1 in two. Making a belay after the turn of the corner and before the steep grove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For rope drag, we found that it's probably best to split pitch 1 in two. Making a belay after the turn of the corner and before the steep grove.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Repeated
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Route of Interest
Arnamul Magic

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mingulay)

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