The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper; though like the school bully (and unlike Whillans!) it isn't as 'ard as it looks once you take it on! The climbing is straightforward though mighty harassing and the route feels like E1. Climb to a sitting position on The Pedestal then step right and climb the short tricky wall to the roof and a big sling on the massive spike of the Cheeseblock. Lean right to get the first of the creaking juggy flakes then launch across these to the lip where solid jamming helps the pull over into the final easy crack. The old roof climbing adage of "keep your feet on the rock at all costs" is worth bearing in mind. © Rockfax
FA. Don "It's OK if you use yer loaf" Whillans 1954.
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