Rockfax Description
A serious but spectacular line whose first pitch needs a careful approach. Start a few metres to the right of the fault-line at a massive block forming two slabby corners about 5m above the high-water line. The right-hand corner has a cramped ledge at its base. A good belay can be found here.
1) 20m, 5a. Move up the slabby corner to dirty ledges on top of the block, where a line of good flakes leads left across a steep wall. This point is below a more distinct horizontal flake/crack. Make a committing hand-traverse left along the flakes, and gain a resting position in the fault-line with difficulty. The short steep corner of the fault leads up to a good ledge, Peg and nut belay.
2) 50m, 5a. Move right across the slab and then up its right edge, until it is possible to move rightwards to a small ledge. Climb the steep crack above to easier ground. Keep moving up right to gain a ridge. A difficult nut belay can be made here or move up back left to a notch, peg and tree well back. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Cream first! , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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