UKC

70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A serious but spectacular line whose first pitch needs a careful approach. Start a few metres to the right of the fault-line at a massive block forming two slabby corners about 5m above the high-water line. The right-hand corner has a cramped ledge at its base. A good belay can be found here.
1) 20m, 5a. Move up the slabby corner to dirty ledges on top of the block, where a line of good flakes leads left across a steep wall. This point is below a more distinct horizontal flake/crack. Make a committing hand-traverse left along the flakes, and gain a resting position in the fault-line with difficulty. The short steep corner of the fault leads up to a good ledge, Peg and nut belay.
2) 50m, 5a. Move right across the slab and then up its right edge, until it is possible to move rightwards to a small ledge. Climb the steep crack above to easier ground. Keep moving up right to gain a ridge. A difficult nut belay can be made here or move up back left to a notch, peg and tree well back. © Rockfax

P Littlejohn, E Grindley (AL) via P1 of Cinqtus (P1 added S Jones Oct '74) 15/Feb/1969.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Cream first! , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS

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User Date Notes
EGriffin 11 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There's a seagull nest with two chicks on the midpoint belay. We bailed when we discovered the nest. Fri 11th June 2021.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a seagull nest with two chicks on the midpoint belay. We bailed when we discovered the nest. Fri 11th June 2021.
Bhopper 10 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, first pitch was interesting. Started going too high on the traverse I think I was being drawn towards the pegs . Free climbing back to the ledge went the lower line went allot easier. Nesting Gull on the belay ledge made be jump and after some angry squawking and pecking I moved right onto the face and climbed up past and put a belay in at the base of the overhanging crack. Fantastic position coming out of the crack on p2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, first pitch was interesting. Started going too high on the traverse I think I was being drawn towards the pegs . Free climbing back to the ledge went the lower line went allot easier. Nesting Gull on the belay ledge made be jump and after some angry squawking and pecking I moved right onto the face and climbed up past and put a belay in at the base of the overhanging crack. Fantastic position coming out of the crack on p2

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Satan's Slip

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Lundy)

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