UKC

36m.

Rockfax Description
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, H.Sharp Mar/1986.

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User Date Notes
cem 29 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to fail miserably at the start.
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βeta: Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to fail miserably at the start.
ChrisC 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with John, a classic sandbag. E3 seemed closer to the mark if you stay out of Deranged.
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βeta: I'd agree with John, a classic sandbag. E3 seemed closer to the mark if you stay out of Deranged.
jim jones 25 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Just thought I'd check what others had thought of this, it's an absolute sandbag at E1. I failed miserably on the first crack & saw little point in deviation. Ricochet is much easier.
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βeta: Just thought I'd check what others had thought of this, it's an absolute sandbag at E1. I failed miserably on the first crack & saw little point in deviation. Ricochet is much easier.
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the biggest sandbags in Pembroke. Many find it E3 if climbed direct. Even if lots of deviations onto Deranged are made, the bottom crack alone is surely E25c
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βeta: One of the biggest sandbags in Pembroke. Many find it E3 if climbed direct. Even if lots of deviations onto Deranged are made, the bottom crack alone is surely E25c

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hurricane

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Iron Age Fort)

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