UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

36m.

Rockfax Description
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, H.Sharp Mar/1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
cem 29 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to fail miserably at the start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to fail miserably at the start.
ChrisC 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with John, a classic sandbag. E3 seemed closer to the mark if you stay out of Deranged.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree with John, a classic sandbag. E3 seemed closer to the mark if you stay out of Deranged.
jim jones 25 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Just thought I'd check what others had thought of this, it's an absolute sandbag at E1. I failed miserably on the first crack & saw little point in deviation. Ricochet is much easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just thought I'd check what others had thought of this, it's an absolute sandbag at E1. I failed miserably on the first crack & saw little point in deviation. Ricochet is much easier.
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the biggest sandbags in Pembroke. Many find it E3 if climbed direct. Even if lots of deviations onto Deranged are made, the bottom crack alone is surely E25c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the biggest sandbags in Pembroke. Many find it E3 if climbed direct. Even if lots of deviations onto Deranged are made, the bottom crack alone is surely E25c

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Crossing

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)

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