UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
The prominent crack in the side wall of the rubble-filled gully. Start at the bottom of the crack and climb to the top. Steep and awkward but quite satisfying. © Rockfax

FA. S.Monks, C.King Oct/1978.

Ticklists

Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Frank the Husky 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely E2. Sustained and varied - and often greasy at the start. A large (5/+) cam isn't necessary for the top, but save your green camalot for a slot that will protect the offwidth moves. Otherwise it will be very spooky and not much fun.
Show beta
βeta: Definitely E2. Sustained and varied - and often greasy at the start. A large (5/+) cam isn't necessary for the top, but save your green camalot for a slot that will protect the offwidth moves. Otherwise it will be very spooky and not much fun.
Kirill 15 Apr, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
Show beta
βeta: Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
John Alcock 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Rarely done but really good. Only dry late in the day. Take a little big gear.
Show beta
βeta: Rarely done but really good. Only dry late in the day. Take a little big gear.

Logged Ascents

269 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Galactic Glory

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hollow Caves Bay)

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