UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
This excellent and popular route follows the big corner above the centre of the ledge but it does have a bit of a stopper move at half-height. Climb a short corner and then move right into the main corner. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Lamb, D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 31/Dec/1976.

Ticklists

Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Beginners Pembroke , 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant!
Mike Redmayne 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There has been some recent rockfall near the top (early Sept 2005). No reason not to do this great route, but go easy on the last 10 feet or so if you don't want to send rocks onto your belayer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There has been some recent rockfall near the top (early Sept 2005). No reason not to do this great route, but go easy on the last 10 feet or so if you don't want to send rocks onto your belayer.
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but sees numerous failures on the one move crux by people who go on to do The Arrow clean.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but sees numerous failures on the one move crux by people who go on to do The Arrow clean.

Logged Ascents

1084 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 166
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 156
Votes cast 150
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Galactic Co-ordinator

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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