UKC

Restricted Access

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A massive pair of roofs and a desperate wide crack.
1) 6b, 20m. Climb past a niche and crack to the roof. Bridge outwards to the lip then pull round with difficulty to a thread belay above.
2) 6c, 20m. Move left then up to the roof. Struggle over this and continue to the top. 1 rest point used on the first ascent. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6b, 6c

FA. (Pitch 1) M.Turner, D.Kenyon 21.9.1998. FA. (Pitch 2) M.Turner, L.Thomas 2.9.1999.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Monkey Journey to the West

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Mount Sion Central)

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