Rockfax Description
An old classic which is a daunting prospect. Good ropework, plenty of extenders and a balanced team are required since it is not one for a timid second.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up the groove to the chimney above and continue to an overhang - possible belay in a slot cave to reduce drag. Climb out and traverse leftwards to gain the base of a small chimney. Move up to belay.
3) 5c, 20m. Move up to the big roof above, then traverse strenuously leftwards until beneath a flared crack. Battle your way up this feature to reach a scoop. Go right around the top roof to finish. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 03/May/1978.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Stewart2 | 17 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Packs most of a day's climbing into 2 pitches. Looked awesome and inspiring watching from Mowingword as Fiona and Tristan climbed it the previous day...so we headed over the next day. Intimidating place, with a few things to juggle, namely tides, potential sliminess without drying sun/wind and scorchio in full sun. An E2 leader's worst nightmare! Prussiks definitely recommended, along with a competent second on pitch 2. I found the move up from the traverse into the groove/crack tricky and managed to grate a layer of skin off my shoulder whilst thrutching around trying to reach the obvious good hold to get established. Take plenty of extendable draws-a broddler was useful for threading one. There was no way we were doing Puritan after this, so we sought the sanctuary of shade on Mowingword East! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Packs most of a day's climbing into 2 pitches. Looked awesome and inspiring watching from Mowingword as Fiona and Tristan climbed it the previous day...so we headed over the next day. Intimidating place, with a few things to juggle, namely tides, potential sliminess without drying sun/wind and scorchio in full sun. An E2 leader's worst nightmare! Prussiks definitely recommended, along with a competent second on pitch 2. I found the move up from the traverse into the groove/crack tricky and managed to grate a layer of skin off my shoulder whilst thrutching around trying to reach the obvious good hold to get established. Take plenty of extendable draws-a broddler was useful for threading one. There was no way we were doing Puritan after this, so we sought the sanctuary of shade on Mowingword East! |
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| Misha | 3 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If the tide is pressing, there is a decent hanging belay on threads at the bottom of the first chimney / mini cave. Should also be possible to belay in the second chimney / larger cave. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If the tide is pressing, there is a decent hanging belay on threads at the bottom of the first chimney / mini cave. Should also be possible to belay in the second chimney / larger cave. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stackpole Head
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Zeppelin
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)