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14m.

Rockfax Description
A good slab with thin initial moves. Continue past another delicate section, which leads to the curving finishing flake. Not too well protected in its upper reaches. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Brian Mattock 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I can confirm the initial starting polish, but then brilliant, if thinly protected, climbing all the way. Crux is the start, but maintains a good standard throughout. Can't decide if two or three stars.
βeta?
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βeta: I can confirm the initial starting polish, but then brilliant, if thinly protected, climbing all the way. Crux is the start, but maintains a good standard throughout. Can't decide if two or three stars.
Paul Tomo 6 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice start to the climb all though a little polished and also a nice mid section as well, gear in the right places if you need it with a scramble to finish.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice start to the climb all though a little polished and also a nice mid section as well, gear in the right places if you need it with a scramble to finish.
Dale Berry 3 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Easy enough for 5a, but could be a bit of a shock at HS if you haven't got your steady head on. Definitely worth taking the ropes for mind. There is a good friend after the initail crux section, for the still delicate middle bit. A pink Tricam protects the otherwise run-out, but much easier, end section.
 
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βeta: Easy enough for 5a, but could be a bit of a shock at HS if you haven't got your steady head on. Definitely worth taking the ropes for mind. There is a good friend after the initail crux section, for the still delicate middle bit. A pink Tricam protects the otherwise run-out, but much easier, end section.
2RoyalAnglian 7 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: tango buttress - a fantastic climb!! my 1st lead of the year after seconding up tango crack (vdiff) which resulted in mark anstey kissing the rock halfway up!?! bold and a confident approach is needed scott
βeta?
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βeta: tango buttress - a fantastic climb!! my 1st lead of the year after seconding up tango crack (vdiff) which resulted in mark anstey kissing the rock halfway up!?! bold and a confident approach is needed scott
Andy Hobson 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Start is definately 5a - noticably harder than anything on High Neb Buttress - and the most useful foothold is very polished. May be something to do with scrabbling top ropers in boots. Otherwise nice.
βeta?
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βeta: Start is definately 5a - noticably harder than anything on High Neb Buttress - and the most useful foothold is very polished. May be something to do with scrabbling top ropers in boots. Otherwise nice.
Jonathan T 13 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't feel like 5a to me, especially not if you compare it to Norse Corner Climb which gets 5a in the Stanage guide and 4c in Rockfax. Felt about 4c. Soloed it, which menas it doesn't feel insecure!
βeta?
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βeta: Didn't feel like 5a to me, especially not if you compare it to Norse Corner Climb which gets 5a in the Stanage guide and 4c in Rockfax. Felt about 4c. Soloed it, which menas it doesn't feel insecure!
Mutl3y 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the gear was great. If you can get up the slab to the first (or is it second?) break, then you shouldn't have any problems with the rest as the grade eases. And you can bung a small friend under a flake for the last of the 4a moves before the grade really eases. Nice to practice difficult moves with little potential for injury.
βeta?
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βeta: Thought the gear was great. If you can get up the slab to the first (or is it second?) break, then you shouldn't have any problems with the rest as the grade eases. And you can bung a small friend under a flake for the last of the 4a moves before the grade really eases. Nice to practice difficult moves with little potential for injury.
Stuart S 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy for the grade if you're tall. Good gear too - a friend to the left at the first decent break, and another on the right at the next. Lovely little route, but you'd have to be trying hard to deck out.
βeta?
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βeta: Very easy for the grade if you're tall. Good gear too - a friend to the left at the first decent break, and another on the right at the next. Lovely little route, but you'd have to be trying hard to deck out.
Chris Davids 12 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yet another fantastic HS, a solid 5a move off the ground and a bold middle section. The top section can be protected with a nut behind the flake. Shouldn't this climb get a little winged heart icon, it certainly felt like there was a potential for a big fall.
 
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βeta: Yet another fantastic HS, a solid 5a move off the ground and a bold middle section. The top section can be protected with a nut behind the flake. Shouldn't this climb get a little winged heart icon, it certainly felt like there was a potential for a big fall.
Si dH 9 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did this as my first HS lead. First move was hardish and unprotected but I managed to get something soon after that, so the middle section was at least partly protected (I think!). Top less protected maybe but also easier once you're at the flake. Very nice route.
βeta?
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βeta: Did this as my first HS lead. First move was hardish and unprotected but I managed to get something soon after that, so the middle section was at least partly protected (I think!). Top less protected maybe but also easier once you're at the flake. Very nice route.
LakesWinter 3 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Poorly protected higher up but very good climbing
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βeta: Poorly protected higher up but very good climbing
Simon Caldwell 30 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The first move off the ground is harder than anything on High Neb Buttress so 5a seems reasonable. Above this it would be about HS 4a due to lack of gear.
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βeta: The first move off the ground is harder than anything on High Neb Buttress so 5a seems reasonable. Above this it would be about HS 4a due to lack of gear.
gav p 15 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The first smeary move to get off the ground to the first break is 5a. You must have been using the vdiff crack to the left if you thought 4a. It's all fairly easy above, however.
βeta?
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βeta: The first smeary move to get off the ground to the first break is 5a. You must have been using the vdiff crack to the left if you thought 4a. It's all fairly easy above, however.
bone 14 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: nice climb but don't know where it gets a 5a grading? seemed more like 4a to me.
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βeta: nice climb but don't know where it gets a 5a grading? seemed more like 4a to me.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing.
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βeta: Lovely climbing.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 253
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 253
Votes cast 221
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)