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12m.

Rockfax Description
Start under the edge an overlap at 3m. Climb past the overlap then continue up the slab in a direct line to a tricky finale. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Chatsworth to Bamford, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Stanage Solo, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
MattOwen 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found it a really intricate route. Subtle variation in climbing style required. Head straight up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found it a really intricate route. Subtle variation in climbing style required. Head straight up.
dave frost 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: starting up the middle of the bottom slab makes it quite hard, most started a little right of where the guidebook suggested - looked much easier tho.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: starting up the middle of the bottom slab makes it quite hard, most started a little right of where the guidebook suggested - looked much easier tho.
Dale Berry 21 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not too bad. Has enough gear and lacks too many problems, so should make a good first severe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not too bad. Has enough gear and lacks too many problems, so should make a good first severe.
Simon Caldwell 8 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I have no idea how anyone could vote 0 stars for this, it's a superb route. Take a straight line up it's more like HS 4b, the original grade requires you to keep going sideways, hence presumably the name.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have no idea how anyone could vote 0 stars for this, it's a superb route. Take a straight line up it's more like HS 4b, the original grade requires you to keep going sideways, hence presumably the name.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 89
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)