Rockfax Description
Climb the slab left of the overhang with good delicate moves on spaced pockets. There is more gear than appears from below. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Green Peak Grit Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| liensiwel | 26 Jul |
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βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section! |
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| runestone | 11 Jun |
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βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same | ||
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βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same |
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| Cumbrianexile | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf. |
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| jackie | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold |
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| Graham T | 15 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide | βeta? | |
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βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide |
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| Jon Greengrass | 6 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind. | βeta? | |
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βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind. |
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| dave frost | 11 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove. |
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| Dale Berry | 21 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 8 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner? |
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| climb52 | 16 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS | βeta? | |
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βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Gabriel
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)