UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Start at a vertical crack that ends at 6m. Climb this then traverse left to the base of the continuation crack which is entered by harder moves. Follow it more easily to finish up a right-facing groove. The direct start is a boldish 5a problem. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1929.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , King of VDiff , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Top 25 routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant
Andy Hobson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: VS 4c - just. The move into the crack is tricky but well protected; the crux seemed to be the taverse. Not at all sustained really as footholds are invariably good and the angle is pretty laid back. An ideal first VS.
Show beta
βeta: VS 4c - just. The move into the crack is tricky but well protected; the crux seemed to be the taverse. Not at all sustained really as footholds are invariably good and the angle is pretty laid back. An ideal first VS.
Simon Caldwell 27 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well I'm just pushing VS and it wasn't a 3 star route for me. Just one move of 4c, the rest was disappointingly easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well I'm just pushing VS and it wasn't a 3 star route for me. Just one move of 4c, the rest was disappointingly easy.
Monk 13 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was worth 3 stars. It's good but not as good as many other routes nearby. he ledge and easy top spoil it a bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't think this was worth 3 stars. It's good but not as good as many other routes nearby. he ledge and easy top spoil it a bit.
gav p 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with nice moves, well worth doing. Found it quite strenuous placing gear in lower section, eases significantly after that.
Show beta
βeta: A good route with nice moves, well worth doing. Found it quite strenuous placing gear in lower section, eases significantly after that.

Logged Ascents

5329 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 228 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 383
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 359
Votes cast 366
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moneylender's Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

Loading Notifications...