UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The clean-cut corner-crack is steep and excellent. The lower section has some polished footholds and is the crux, but the imposing upper part is juggy and proves to be impressive at the grade. Protection is excellent throughout. © Rockfax

FA. George Bower 1926.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , UK Classic Corners , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , 100 Best Routes on Grit , LSMC to do , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Diffage Comp , Morgan's List , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
paulinepavlova 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Polished
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished
Chris the Tall 28 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Who says polished routes can't be fun ? The holds are so positive you hardly even notice it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Who says polished routes can't be fun ? The holds are so positive you hardly even notice it.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: must have lead this route 4 or 5 times and never fails to put a smile on my face.Good to look back on and just enjoy climbing well within your grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: must have lead this route 4 or 5 times and never fails to put a smile on my face.Good to look back on and just enjoy climbing well within your grade
thwapy 23 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: easy VD,a cruise, excellent route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy VD,a cruise, excellent route
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: only tricky move can be overcome easily with either a fistjam or some slightly committing laybacking, and the steep section is juggy. Good climb at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: only tricky move can be overcome easily with either a fistjam or some slightly committing laybacking, and the steep section is juggy. Good climb at the grade.
Nutkey 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely the hard end of VD, and a good preparation for HVD. Didn't find the start that slippy (and used plenty of kneejams/armbars on the way up). Got the first nut in though, and then knocked it out on the way past, so just continued upwards till I found some better gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely the hard end of VD, and a good preparation for HVD. Didn't find the start that slippy (and used plenty of kneejams/armbars on the way up). Got the first nut in though, and then knocked it out on the way past, so just continued upwards till I found some better gear!
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: T'aint really that slippery. Or maybe it was just the strange knee jam manouevre I used. Lovely route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: T'aint really that slippery. Or maybe it was just the strange knee jam manouevre I used. Lovely route though.
Simon Caldwell 23 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The slippery holds at the start are easily avoided if you stick to the corner crack from the very beginning. You'll need some techniques not easily practised at the wall though ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The slippery holds at the start are easily avoided if you stick to the corner crack from the very beginning. You'll need some techniques not easily practised at the wall though ;-)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 489
Votes cast 484
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heaven Crack

Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)

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