UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right arete then move to the left edge briefly before traversing back right again and going directly to a juggy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Townsend 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Tomo 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is my best VS route yet, delicate and balance start not to bad in the mid section but the last section and the finish wass brill, will do this route again. VS 4c yes
βeta?
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βeta: This is my best VS route yet, delicate and balance start not to bad in the mid section but the last section and the finish wass brill, will do this route again. VS 4c yes
Si dH 29 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Like Nick Id have said direct was fair at HVS 5a, the second or third move (up towards the ledge) definitely felt 5a if you dont use the arete and the start is a bit run out (although soft) 5a, although its also a bit contrived. I can imagine the top being fun for a VS leader, although its really a relatively simple mantel if you keep your head together.
βeta?
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βeta: Like Nick Id have said direct was fair at HVS 5a, the second or third move (up towards the ledge) definitely felt 5a if you dont use the arete and the start is a bit run out (although soft) 5a, although its also a bit contrived. I can imagine the top being fun for a VS leader, although its really a relatively simple mantel if you keep your head together.
shaun walby 24 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Direct start i thought was pretty standard VS4c, climbing is excellent for the grade with great final moves through the slight overhang.
βeta?
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βeta: Direct start i thought was pretty standard VS4c, climbing is excellent for the grade with great final moves through the slight overhang.
Swig 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Best to go up and place you last pieces and then downclimb for a rest before blasting through the finish. Good route.
βeta?
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βeta: Best to go up and place you last pieces and then downclimb for a rest before blasting through the finish. Good route.
MNA123 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did direct start and cant make my mind up about the grade, i'd say... easy 5a IMO.Really nice route though, Swung in from the right for the top out expecting there to be a few more holds then there where...
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βeta: Did direct start and cant make my mind up about the grade, i'd say... easy 5a IMO.Really nice route though, Swung in from the right for the top out expecting there to be a few more holds then there where...
Swig 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's not really all that run out, you can get a 00 friend in above you head early on. Plenty of gear above that including some cunning nuts. I think I did the direct start which didn't feel worth 5a. Excellent top out.
βeta?
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βeta: It's not really all that run out, you can get a 00 friend in above you head early on. Plenty of gear above that including some cunning nuts. I think I did the direct start which didn't feel worth 5a. Excellent top out.
Jon Greengrass 26 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: superb, feels like a grade harder high neb buttress, the direct start is best and the top out is wild !
βeta?
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βeta: superb, feels like a grade harder high neb buttress, the direct start is best and the top out is wild !
Simon Caldwell 27 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, run out and balancy in the middle, exposed at strenuous at the top. The only thing stopping it getting 3 stars is the ease of escape onto either the descent route or Hollybush crack.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb route, run out and balancy in the middle, exposed at strenuous at the top. The only thing stopping it getting 3 stars is the ease of escape onto either the descent route or Hollybush crack.
Nick Smith - Climbers 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is called 'Straight and Narrow' and given HVS 5a in the BMC guide, which sounds about right to me.
βeta?
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βeta: The direct start is called 'Straight and Narrow' and given HVS 5a in the BMC guide, which sounds about right to me.
Nick Smith - Climbers 23 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start needs good balance! Not much gear - feels more like HVS?
βeta?
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βeta: The direct start needs good balance! Not much gear - feels more like HVS?
Monk 16 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly spoilt as the middle section is right next to the descent route but otherwise excellent and varied. Delicate slabs and juggy overhangs!
βeta?
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βeta: Slightly spoilt as the middle section is right next to the descent route but otherwise excellent and varied. Delicate slabs and juggy overhangs!

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 252
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 230
Votes cast 226
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ten Craters of Wisdom

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dovedale)

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