UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A polished crack and deep groove lead to the roof. Traverse right to the exposed crack that skirts the roof. There are also leftward escapes - a mild low one and an exciting high one - and an exposed direct at a slightly harder VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Cyril Ward 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Popular , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Toby nuttall 9 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Double ropes!
Show beta
βeta: Double ropes!
Jessica_G 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Probably one of the nicest VS routes I’ve done. Good pro, great positions. Someone had been for a poop at the top which was gross!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably one of the nicest VS routes I’ve done. Good pro, great positions. Someone had been for a poop at the top which was gross!
Joel Sims 28 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, though someone left a massive poop at the top out. Thanks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, though someone left a massive poop at the top out. Thanks!
ulastopka 15 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang.
Show beta
βeta: Quite tricky route especially in the groove groove under the overhang.
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years.
NickST 3 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think.
Paul Tomo 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route.
βeta?
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βeta: Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route.
chrisclimber_1986 1 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes
fast eddie 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience.
Oli 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bit polished in places.
βeta?
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βeta: Bit polished in places.
victim of mathematics 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though.
chriszxr 10 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it
βeta?
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βeta: first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it
Souljah 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route.
βeta?
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βeta: Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant!
βeta?
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βeta: brilliant!
GrahamD 13 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult.
Alun 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS...
βeta?
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βeta: i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS...
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over.
Nutkey 20 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone!
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit.
βeta?
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βeta: i liked the up bit and the traverse bit.
Simon Caldwell 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here!
βeta?
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βeta: Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here!
Budge 20 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Dirty and overated
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dirty and overated
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 515
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 485
Votes cast 478
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Golden Yardstick

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wildcat)

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