UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's top VS routes, though some odd souls don't rate it. Start in a leaning groove and climb this steeply to a bridged rest below bulges. Pass this awkwardly and then follow the flake crack above which eases gradually. © Rockfax

FA. Roy Horseman 1927.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , The Eal List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant, well-protected, with thoughtful moves and a sustained quality of climbing, but nothing particularly physical. One of the better Stanage VS - and there are a lot of good ones. Several grades easier than The File at Higgar Tor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasant, well-protected, with thoughtful moves and a sustained quality of climbing, but nothing particularly physical. One of the better Stanage VS - and there are a lot of good ones. Several grades easier than The File at Higgar Tor.
milanboez 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Out of the 10+ VSs we've done at Stanage Popular, found this by far the hardest (awkward). Maybe I was having an off-climb? But the second (main crux) felt very insecure and difficult to start (at least it's well protected).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Out of the 10+ VSs we've done at Stanage Popular, found this by far the hardest (awkward). Maybe I was having an off-climb? But the second (main crux) felt very insecure and difficult to start (at least it's well protected).
FreyaWilliams1 26 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route
Martino90 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground
Mutl3y 20 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though!
Jus 22 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!!
Si dH 24 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though.
Jon Greengrass 17 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall?
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list?
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit.
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 476
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 454
Votes cast 457
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inverted V

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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