Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's top VS routes, though some odd souls don't rate it. Start in a leaning groove and climb this steeply to a bridged rest below bulges. Pass this awkwardly and then follow the flake crack above which eases gradually. © Rockfax
FA. Roy Horseman 1927.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| FreyaWilliams1 | 26 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route |
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| Kirill | 21 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The block at mid-height won't be there for long. Better not to sit down for a picnic at the bottom of this route for the time being. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block at mid-height won't be there for long. Better not to sit down for a picnic at the bottom of this route for the time being. |
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| Martino90 | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a loose square block 4 meters from the ground |
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| Mutl3y | 20 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found this quite mild at the grade. Ponced around placing plenty of wires from the ledge and then it was all over. Top banana though! |
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| Jus | 22 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Soloed this on a day out soloing this summer. The only route amongst many that I got to a point high up where didn't want to go up or down. Very happy to get to the top!! |
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| Si dH | 24 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I definitely found this the hardest VS 4c id led (out of a total of 10 or so now), the move over the first bulge I found particularly hard, although cracks and bulges aren't my strong point. Great route though. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Covers amazingly steep ground for a gritstone VS. Moving between the bulges was tricky but may be harder for the tall? |
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| leon | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list? | βeta? | |
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βeta: a nice climb but why is it high up in the rockfax graded list? |
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| shaun walby | 28 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: superb route, up there with the top 3 ive done at VS 4c. great gear, good pro, couple of tricky moves and rest's just where you need them...i doubt it gets much better then this on grit. |
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| gav p | 21 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route! Moves up steep ground for a VS, but there is a good rest before every hard move and the gear couldn't be better. A couple of hard 4c moves over bulges higher up is the crux, but you can reach up and place overhead wires to protect both of these before you go for it. Great fun. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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The Brain
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Curbar Edge)