UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up the wall just right of Limbo with a hard move to reach two juggy pockets on the right. Continue up left of these to the roof. Pull straight over this on big, but slightly loose, holds. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 30/May/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alun 7 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The CC guide gives this E3 and I think this is a more accurate grade - hanging around to place gear at the pockets is very pumpy and the crux is immediately above this - if you don't place gear here you're going a long way.
βeta?
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βeta: The CC guide gives this E3 and I think this is a more accurate grade - hanging around to place gear at the pockets is very pumpy and the crux is immediately above this - if you don't place gear here you're going a long way.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The technical but reasonably well-protected moves before and after the pockets make this a worthwhile outing in my view. Just don't hang onto the sanctuary of the pockets for too long!
βeta?
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βeta: The technical but reasonably well-protected moves before and after the pockets make this a worthwhile outing in my view. Just don't hang onto the sanctuary of the pockets for too long!
Gareth H 4 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Me too, the holds were pretty crimpy and small, don't forget the double knee bar hands off rest in the top roof
βeta?
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βeta: Me too, the holds were pretty crimpy and small, don't forget the double knee bar hands off rest in the top roof
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the hard move was after the 2 juggy pockets, not before?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the hard move was after the 2 juggy pockets, not before?

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 52
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Keelhaul

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Bosherston Head)

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