UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The wide crackline on the right-hand side of the upper wall. © Rockfax

FA. C.Pound, D.Walters 13/Aug/1978.

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User Date Notes
BarwoodP 12 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nails for the grade done easier E2s than this route.
βeta?
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βeta: Nails for the grade done easier E2s than this route.
sashbones 2 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Similar to other e1 cracks, HVS if you jam, E1 if you can't. Gear is solid, could have sunk a blue and another yellow cam if I'd had it. Laced the cracks thinking I was before the crux, but I was in the crux. Did get one arm bar in the wide bit, and definitely more thumb packed fist jams than hand jams. Feet mostly outside crack aside from 2 moves.
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βeta: Similar to other e1 cracks, HVS if you jam, E1 if you can't. Gear is solid, could have sunk a blue and another yellow cam if I'd had it. Laced the cracks thinking I was before the crux, but I was in the crux. Did get one arm bar in the wide bit, and definitely more thumb packed fist jams than hand jams. Feet mostly outside crack aside from 2 moves.
John Cuthbert 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice to see the honest confession of comments about the route's character and grade. This is by no means a straightforward jamming experience; it is surprising awkward with some very strange holds. Still high quality mind
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βeta: Nice to see the honest confession of comments about the route's character and grade. This is by no means a straightforward jamming experience; it is surprising awkward with some very strange holds. Still high quality mind
Aled Williams 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Deserves atleast 2 stars
βeta?
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βeta: Deserves atleast 2 stars
plant_based_tommo 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of gear but pumpy to place. old school style climbing! bring your hexes tweed jacked and pipe and you should be fine!
βeta?
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βeta: Plenty of gear but pumpy to place. old school style climbing! bring your hexes tweed jacked and pipe and you should be fine!
Alison Cairns 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Worth a star - good line, excellent rock, sustained and good climbing of its type! Awkward to place gear. A good honest struggle.
βeta?
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βeta: Worth a star - good line, excellent rock, sustained and good climbing of its type! Awkward to place gear. A good honest struggle.
chris j 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Pure gritstone thuggery, it'd be HVS in t'Peak
βeta?
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βeta: Pure gritstone thuggery, it'd be HVS in t'Peak
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great test of crack climbing ability. Can be laced if you carry big cams.
βeta?
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βeta: Great test of crack climbing ability. Can be laced if you carry big cams.
Tony Holdsworth 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely E1 5b.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely E1 5b.
Morgan Woods 5 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: desperate! Much harder than the nearby Manzoku.
βeta?
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βeta: desperate! Much harder than the nearby Manzoku.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stennis Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 96
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bohemian Bubblebath

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)

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