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4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent expedition up the large subsidiary buttress just left of the main face. Start at a short mossy looking wall left of a large vegetated gully and just right of a crack.
1) 12m. Climb the wall on improving holds and at its top work leftwards towards the arete and belay.
2) 10m. Move up the broad face of the arete past ledges and flakes to a belay on a good ledge below a prominent bent tree.
3) 14m. Climb up to a ledge either directly past the bent tree or via a crack just to its left. Climb the steep crack which rises from the ledge. Once the first moves are made, better holds follow, then move up and left to a tree belay.
4) 9m. Climb the exposed face above the tree and bridge left over a gap to the top, this is the top pitch of Reverse Cleft. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic excursion. Start beneath a short, earthy, wall; bounded by a wide, curving, crack on its left side.
1) 3b. Either climb the wall carefully, and scramble to belay beneath another short wall, or climb the crack to reach the same belay.
2) 3a. Move left, and mantleshelf onto a small ledge. Climb direct to a tree belay.
3) 3c. Climb the curving crack (crux for most), and move up to another tree belay. The arĂȘte, to the left of the crack, can also be climbed.
4) 3a. Climb the pinnacle, then fall, step or jump across the gap. Nervous seconds have been known to threaten to bivouac on top of the pinnacle.

FA. Jim Moulton 1948.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, South West Climbs for a Northerner, South West VDiff-HVS, Welcome to CUMC, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mlewis 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead 2, 4. Good fun and a great last move to get off the pinnacle.
βeta?
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βeta: Lead 2, 4. Good fun and a great last move to get off the pinnacle.
Slawek Noga 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch can be slightly slippery if conditions weather is bad
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βeta: First pitch can be slightly slippery if conditions weather is bad
Sam_in_Leeds 12 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the very best climbs I have ever done. The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the very best climbs I have ever done. The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
Tom Last 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
βeta?
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βeta: Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
victim of mathematics 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
Dale Berry 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...
βeta?
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βeta: Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...

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Votes cast 114
Votes cast 117
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Whispering Doom

Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)