An excellent expedition up the large subsidiary buttress just left of the main face. Start at a short mossy looking wall left of a large vegetated gully and just right of a crack.1) 12m. Climb the wall on improving holds and at its top work leftwards towards the arete and belay.2) 10m. Move up the broad face of the arete past ledges and flakes to a belay on a good ledge below a prominent bent tree.3) 14m. Climb up to a ledge either directly past the bent tree or via a crack just to its left. Climb the steep crack which rises from the ledge. Once the first moves are made, better holds follow, then move up and left to a tree belay. 4) 9m. Climb the exposed face above the tree and bridge left over a gap to the top, this is the top pitch of Reverse Cleft. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic excursion. Start beneath a short, earthy, wall; bounded by a wide, curving, crack on its left side.
1) 3b. Either climb the wall carefully, and scramble to belay beneath another short wall, or climb the crack to reach the same belay.
2) 3a. Move left, and mantleshelf onto a small ledge. Climb direct to a tree belay.
3) 3c. Climb the curving crack (crux for most), and move up to another tree belay. The arête, to the left of the crack, can also be climbed.
4) 3a. Climb the pinnacle, then fall, step or jump across the gap. Nervous seconds have been known to threaten to bivouac on top of the pinnacle.
FA. Jim Moulton 1948.
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