UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.

Rockfax Description
Start left Pinnacle Buttress's initial chimney.
1) 4a, 8m. Climb the face of the block rightwards to a spike on the arete. Move up right to reach the top of the chimney on the first pitch of Pinnacle Buttress. Belay as for Pinnacle Buttress.
2) 9m. Easy scrambling leads to below a steeper wall.
3) 4a, 13m. Follow short walls and then a crack on the left to a ledge under final crack.
4) 4a, 8m. Climb the crack to the tip of the pinnacle. Climb down and bridge across to a short finishing wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at the top of the steps, beneath the foot of the buttress.
1) 4a. Climb the block, moving right, to its edge (small spike); then move round to the top of the chimney. Belay.
2) 4a.Climb up over blocks, to a wall with a jagged crack on its left. Climb this crack, and belay on the ledge.
3) 4a. Climb the crack in the wall, leaving it to go up direct. Climb over the
pinnacle, and step across the gap to a short wall; this wall leads to the belay. The gap has been jumped, starting from the very top of the pinnacle: The Devil’s Jump. VARIATION
3a) 4a. Move out right, from the ledge; take the overhang direct (bold), and climb to the pinnacle. Step across to belay.

Unknown 01/Jan/1960.

Ticklists

Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
BuzyG 11 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely Climb to start the day with. My first HS lead up the crack on P2, to belay off the top of the panicle We thought we were doing the VD route, but just went for it straight up. Not a lot of room for three of us up there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely Climb to start the day with. My first HS lead up the crack on P2, to belay off the top of the panicle We thought we were doing the VD route, but just went for it straight up. Not a lot of room for three of us up there.

Logged Ascents

435 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 37
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Groove

Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)

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