UKC

63m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and classic Severe that incorporates a wide variety of rock features and climbing, interspersed with pleasant belay ledges. Start just left of the little corner.
1) 4a, 22m. Head up the wall via ledges and then move slightly rightwards to a peg at 10m. Now take the wide slabby scoop leftwards (polished), to a tree belay under a corner.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner past a sticking out small tree to a belay ledge at its top on the right.
3) 3c, 12m. Head directly up above the belay past a gap between small overhangs to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
4) 4a, 13m. Move up onto a ledge under the final wall. Traverse left along the ledge for 3m and then take the short wall on good small holds past a ledge to the top. Take care not to confuse this pitch with the final pitch of Central Rib Route II. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Polished in some places.

The last pitch finishes on the left NOT directly up the steep wall (the VS finish) with the now disappeared wobbly block. At least one guidebook specifically requests those climbing the easier lines not to take the direct VS finish as it is suffering from overuse.

Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.

The route tops out onto Offa-Dykes path, so descend via Easy Way Down (just before the lookout) or walk around to Woodcroft Quarry (the quarry gate is sometimes locked).

Ticklists

Wintours Leap easy multipitch, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Welcome to CUMC, Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below), Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Isaac_Blanc 31 Aug Show βeta
βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
emmaharrington 6 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
Show beta
βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
simoncov 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.
AngelaC 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 137
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 134
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