A long and classic Severe that incorporates a wide variety of rock features and climbing, interspersed with pleasant belay ledges. Start just left of the little corner.
1) 4a, 22m. Head up the wall via ledges and then move slightly rightwards to a peg at 10m. Now take the wide slabby scoop leftwards (polished), to a tree belay under a corner.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner past a sticking out small tree to a belay ledge at its top on the right.
3) 3c, 12m. Head directly up above the belay past a gap between small overhangs to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
4) 4a, 13m. Move up onto a ledge under the final wall. Traverse left along the ledge for 3m and then take the short wall on good small holds past a ledge to the top. Take care not to confuse this pitch with the final pitch of Central Rib Route II. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Polished in some places.
The last pitch finishes on the left NOT directly up the steep wall (the VS finish) with the now disappeared wobbly block. At least one guidebook specifically requests those climbing the easier lines not to take the direct VS finish as it is suffering from overuse.
Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.
The route tops out onto Offa-Dykes path, so descend via Easy Way Down (just before the lookout) or walk around to Woodcroft Quarry (the quarry gate is sometimes locked).
Wintours Leap easy multipitch, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Welcome to CUMC, Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below), Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes
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