UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

63m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and classic Severe that incorporates a wide variety of rock features and climbing, interspersed with pleasant belay ledges. Start just left of the little corner.
1) 4a, 22m. Head up the wall via ledges and then move slightly rightwards to a peg at 10m. Now take the wide slabby scoop leftwards (polished), to a tree belay under a corner.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner past a small, sticking-out tree to a belay ledge at its top on the right.
3) 3c, 12m. Head directly up above the belay past a gap between small overhangs to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
4) 4a, 13m. Move up onto a ledge under the final wall. Traverse left along the ledge for 3m and then take the short wall on good small holds past a ledge to the top. Take care not to confuse this pitch with the final pitch of Central Rib Route II. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.

Ticklists

Wintours Leap easy multipitch , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Welcome to CUMC , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , First trad routes , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
manosand 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: P1 is fun, P2 is great, P3 and P4 are fine but not that exciting. Easy to combine P2 and P3 to save time - especially as quite short pitches.
Show beta
βeta: P1 is fun, P2 is great, P3 and P4 are fine but not that exciting. Easy to combine P2 and P3 to save time - especially as quite short pitches.
KKormos 31 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Polished, very easy climbing. Runout in places with easy climbing but harder pitch is well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished, very easy climbing. Runout in places with easy climbing but harder pitch is well protected.
scottjd 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: It’s easy to accidentally do the VS route on the final pitch if you have the older guide book. It says to go straight on and up; the updated book now says to go three meters left at the final wall before climbing. The picture of the route was correct though, just not the wording. Have some small nuts ready if you go up here.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It’s easy to accidentally do the VS route on the final pitch if you have the older guide book. It says to go straight on and up; the updated book now says to go three meters left at the final wall before climbing. The picture of the route was correct though, just not the wording. Have some small nuts ready if you go up here.
Isaac_Blanc 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
Show beta
βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
emmaharrington 6 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
Show beta
βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
simoncov 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.
AngelaC 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone

Logged Ascents

2026 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 153
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 150
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
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