UKC Logbook - 'Central Rib Route I'

63m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and classic Severe that incorporates a wide variety of rock features and climbing, interspersed with pleasant belay ledges. Start just left of the little corner.
1) 4a, 22m. Head up the wall via ledges and then move slightly rightwards to a peg at 10m. Now take the wide slabby scoop leftwards (polished), to a tree belay under a corner.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner past a small, sticking-out tree to a belay ledge at its top on the right.
3) 3c, 12m. Head directly up above the belay past a gap between small overhangs to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
4) 4a, 13m. Move up onto a ledge under the final wall. Traverse left along the ledge for 3m and then take the short wall on good small holds past a ledge to the top. Take care not to confuse this pitch with the final pitch of Central Rib Route II. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.

Ticklists

Wintours Leap easy multipitch , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Welcome to CUMC , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , First trad routes , Wintour's leap

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User	Date		Notes
lewlew03	5 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Struggled to find the start of the route, we thought we were on Bottle Buttress (VD) as had just scrambled straight up and not walked along. Was a bit of a surprise but nonetheless a great climb and glad the mistake happened. Pitch 2 is lovely and well worth the lead. We also combined pitch 2 and 3 as they're quite short.
Show beta βeta: Struggled to find the start of the route, we thought we were on Bottle Buttress (VD) as had just scrambled straight up and not walked along. Was a bit of a surprise but nonetheless a great climb and glad the mistake happened. Pitch 2 is lovely and well worth the lead. We also combined pitch 2 and 3 as they're quite short.
manosand	1 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: P1 is fun, P2 is great, P3 and P4 are fine but not that exciting. Easy to combine P2 and P3 to save time - especially as quite short pitches.
Show beta βeta: P1 is fun, P2 is great, P3 and P4 are fine but not that exciting. Easy to combine P2 and P3 to save time - especially as quite short pitches.
KKormos	31 Oct, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Polished, very easy climbing. Runout in places with easy climbing but harder pitch is well protected.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Polished, very easy climbing. Runout in places with easy climbing but harder pitch is well protected.
scottjd	19 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: It’s easy to accidentally do the VS route on the final pitch if you have the older guide book. It says to go straight on and up; the updated book now says to go three meters left at the final wall before climbing. The picture of the route was correct though, just not the wording. Have some small nuts ready if you go up here.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: It’s easy to accidentally do the VS route on the final pitch if you have the older guide book. It says to go straight on and up; the updated book now says to go three meters left at the final wall before climbing. The picture of the route was correct though, just not the wording. Have some small nuts ready if you go up here.
Isaac_Blanc	31 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
Show beta βeta: We struggled to find the base of the route, even with the 'help' of the guidebook. Have uploaded some photos with arrows on them that might be useful.
emmaharrington	6 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
Show beta βeta: I lead pitch 2 and 4 (four pitches in total). This was well within our grade and a really pleasant multi-pitch. On 4th pitch it is tempting to go straight up, but we followed the guidebooks advice and traversed left to go up from there in the centre of the wall, which has crimpy positive holds and very short. To get down we located the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry along Offa-Dykes path which had a locked gate so could not get in, so we then located the Easy Way down which was just before the lookout. It was easy to get down on big ledges, although a novice may need some assistance.
simoncov	27 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Looks like most people go straight up the VS 4c on the final pitch, but further left is a nice (if short) wall past a mini-ledge with good pro.
AngelaC	19 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Feels at same grade even with wobbly block gone