UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

63m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' - meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
1) 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.
2) 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well-defined hand-crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.
3) 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.
4) 12m. Climb a thin hand-crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge

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High HVD
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High VD
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Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 64
High 4b
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High 4a
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Votes cast 4
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Rib Route III

Grade: VD ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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