Rockfax Description
Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
1) 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.
2) 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.
3) 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.
4) 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.
5) 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges. © Rockfax

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Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?

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