UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start at the information sign that is bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Climb up and right to below an overhang and then right again to an inset face between slim corners. Climb this to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 13m. Climb up the corner and at the break move right to a ledge and old peg above. Head back left and up to a hand-crack. Take this and the bulge above to easier ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided.

Logged Ascents

213 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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