2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
Start at the information sign that is bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Climb up and right to below an overhang and then right again to an inset face between slim corners. Climb this to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 13m. Climb up the corner and at the break move right to a ledge and old peg above. Head back left and up to a hand-crack. Take this and the bulge above to easier ground. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JackMarshall | 21 Aug |
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βeta: The belay for pitch 2 isn’t that good. You can get a bomber mid sized nut high in the right side corner crack, but below that the gear pulls through. Then on the low left is a huge block that looks like it’ll take a small nut but worryingly shifts when you seat it. I placed a mid sized tricam in a small pocket on the left of this. A narrow cam would have done too. You can then clip the peg next to Swatter and place a tiny nut below that, and massively extend them to the ecliptic gear. But its very out of line with Ecliptic. Not seen any other comments about the belay so maybe it’s just me? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The belay for pitch 2 isn’t that good. You can get a bomber mid sized nut high in the right side corner crack, but below that the gear pulls through. Then on the low left is a huge block that looks like it’ll take a small nut but worryingly shifts when you seat it. I placed a mid sized tricam in a small pocket on the left of this. A narrow cam would have done too. You can then clip the peg next to Swatter and place a tiny nut below that, and massively extend them to the ecliptic gear. But its very out of line with Ecliptic. Not seen any other comments about the belay so maybe it’s just me? |
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| nikoid | 30 May |
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βeta: The tottering pillar on the second pitch has now gone. Was it trundled? Still climbable but a touch more sustained. In particular it will be more strenuous placing gear in the upper crack as the good left foot hold on the pillar is not there any more. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The tottering pillar on the second pitch has now gone. Was it trundled? Still climbable but a touch more sustained. In particular it will be more strenuous placing gear in the upper crack as the good left foot hold on the pillar is not there any more. |
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| aranscope | 28 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Brilliant second pitch | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant second pitch |
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| PaulJepson | 10 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided. |
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Route of Interest
Wurlitzer
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)