UKC

Rockfax Description
Start at the information sign that is bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Ecliptic pitch 1.
2) 5b, 15m. Walk right to where the overhang fades and move up to the break at 3m. Climb to an in situ thread and then on to just below an overlap. Move right and follow the rib to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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User Date Notes
sac5sc 19 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Someone has kindly replaced the in situ thread as of 19/07/2025. Thanks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Someone has kindly replaced the in situ thread as of 19/07/2025. Thanks!
dinodinosaur 26 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: I removed the old thread with the view to replacing it however a brodler or coat hanger is needed to get it through. I think this doesn't change the grade of the route as there is ample gear available instead. I will endeavour to return with some thin wire to coax the cord through but not sure how long that will be.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I removed the old thread with the view to replacing it however a brodler or coat hanger is needed to get it through. I think this doesn't change the grade of the route as there is ample gear available instead. I will endeavour to return with some thin wire to coax the cord through but not sure how long that will be.
JGriffiths47 26 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: In situ thread is no longer there as of today 26/08/24
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ thread is no longer there as of today 26/08/24
Dickie91 23 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: The thread is looking pretty old and sun bleached.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The thread is looking pretty old and sun bleached.
PaulJepson 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There appears to be a small bird flying in and out of p1. May be best avoided.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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