Rockfax Description
The water-worn chimney crack is a noticeable feature. Start at the base of the chimney.
1) 4a, 13m. Bridge up the chimney to the ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 15m. Steep moves gain the unusual rock bar. Negotiate this and finish up the easier upper section of chimney. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
GRADE WARNING. There is no way this is VS 4C anymore. The second pitch after the peg it changes to about E1 on crumbling holds. This is due to the water damage over many years below the rock bar.
The first and second pitch have been cleaned of loose material (21/3/19), making the route more amiable, but still a solid HVS 5a or E1 as described above. A good outing though. A long sling for lobbing over the hole bar gives comforting protection.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)

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