UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The water-worn chimney crack is a noticeable feature. Start at the base of the chimney.
1) 4a, 13m. Bridge up the chimney to the ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 15m. Steep moves gain the unusual rock bar. Negotiate this and finish up the easier upper section of chimney. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
GRADE WARNING. There is no way this is VS 4C anymore. The second pitch after the peg it changes to about E1 on crumbling holds. This is due to the water damage over many years below the rock bar.
The first and second pitch have been cleaned of loose material (21/3/19), making the route more amiable, but still a solid HVS 5a or E1 as described above. A good outing though. A long sling for lobbing over the hole bar gives comforting protection.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)

Feedback

User Date Notes
ben_st 27 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Football size block pulled off today narrowly missing belayer and other large loose block mid way, caution advised
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Football size block pulled off today narrowly missing belayer and other large loose block mid way, caution advised
Mattress 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The peg has been removed, but a pair of #4 wires provide good alternative protection.
Show beta
βeta: The peg has been removed, but a pair of #4 wires provide good alternative protection.
mike hope 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The peg below the rock bar is definitely showing its age.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg below the rock bar is definitely showing its age.

Logged Ascents

134 users have logged this

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Notung

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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