UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Rockfax Description
A super sustained pitch with good protection available. Belay on some pegs in a thin crack towards the far end of the ledge. Climb up the crack to a horizontal band of red rock. Pull over at a jug and get established at the next horizontal break. Fine climbing up slim grooves and crack leads to the upper horizontal break. Push on up through the bulge above (care with holds) to access the upper corner/groove that is followed all the way to the top and the belay/abseil station. © Rockfax

G.Gibson 23/Jan/1983.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , The post lockdown local list , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
ali.scott 24 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There are currently two gull chicks on the ledge just below the final roof/groove. Would recommend waiting a couple of weeks for them to leave if you don't want to disturb them and get attacked by their parents (as I did..).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are currently two gull chicks on the ledge just below the final roof/groove. Would recommend waiting a couple of weeks for them to leave if you don't want to disturb them and get attacked by their parents (as I did..).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kangaroo Wall

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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