One of the longest routes in The Wye Valley that takes its time to get going, but the two upper pitches are excellent. Begin just right of Nibelheim.
1) 3c, 18m. Head up short corners and ledges rightwards and then back left between trees and then straight up to a ledge and belay at a tall but wobbly tree. The tree belay can be backed up.
2) 4b, 20m. Move straight up behind the belay through trees and then on up past a groove to below a left leaning thin crack that leads to a ledge with a tree belay.
3) 4b, 17m. Climb up vegetated ground to below two clean corner/grooves. Take the left-hand corner/groove past a peg and then a short but fine slab past another peg to The Great Ledge.
4) 4a, 30m. A fine pitch with good protection on the harder moves. From just left of where pitch three gains the The Great Ledge take the line of clean rock to a break in the overhangs. Make a tricky sequence up a corner and then head up the wall above to ledges. The wide crack at the back of the ledge leads to a tree belay and abseil point. Do not climb higher than this point. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The North Wall
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