UKC

86m.

Rockfax Description
One of the longest routes in The Wye Valley that takes its time to get going, but the two upper pitches are excellent. Begin just right of Nibelheim.
1) 3c, 18m. Head up short corners and ledges rightwards and then back left between trees and then straight up to a ledge and belay at a tall but wobbly tree. The tree belay can be backed up.
2) 4b, 20m. Move straight up behind the belay through trees and then on up past a groove to below a left leaning thin crack that leads to a ledge with a tree belay.
3) 4b, 17m. Climb up vegetated ground to below two clean corner/grooves. Take the left-hand corner/groove past a peg and then a short but fine slab past another peg to The Great Ledge.
4) 4a, 30m. A fine pitch with good protection on the harder moves. From just left of where pitch three gains the The Great Ledge take the line of clean rock to a break in the overhangs. Make a tricky sequence up a corner and then head up the wall above to ledges. The wide crack at the back of the ledge leads to a tree belay and abseil point. Do not climb higher than this point. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The North Wall

Ticklists

Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hewston09 17 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Large loose block halfway up second pitch, would do serious damage to your belayer below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose block halfway up second pitch, would do serious damage to your belayer below.
jon59 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Lovely new abseil SWR loop at the top of pitch four, thanks BMC.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely new abseil SWR loop at the top of pitch four, thanks BMC.
Webster 27 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: you can take the obvious overhang on pitch 1 on the left (most people do) instead of going right as per the guidebook. it ups the tech grade but not the overall grade assuming you have small (but not micro) cams
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: you can take the obvious overhang on pitch 1 on the left (most people do) instead of going right as per the guidebook. it ups the tech grade but not the overall grade assuming you have small (but not micro) cams

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 43
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Left Hand Route

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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