Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A reasonable way of reaching the Central Ledge - where the routes on the upper section of wall begin. Can be a bit grassy in the crack. Start 9m right of a plaque and just left of a tall tree growing next to the crag. Move up an open groove and then traverse right to below a crack. Climb the crack past a peg on the left to the Central Ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route combined with 'The Tap' and 'Bacchanalian' became known as 'Great North Wall Route'.
EDG Langmuir 13/Jul/1958.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
KKormos | 29 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really cool climbing, take cams. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really cool climbing, take cams. |
||||
leigh | 31 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The hand hold below the bore hole is cracked through and wobbles. I needed and used this to move up to the good hold at the top of the bore hole that allows you to reach the peg. I felt there was a potential to deck. And needed to really clean out the break to take a cam after the lower peg on the direct start variant. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The hand hold below the bore hole is cracked through and wobbles. I needed and used this to move up to the good hold at the top of the bore hole that allows you to reach the peg. I felt there was a potential to deck. And needed to really clean out the break to take a cam after the lower peg on the direct start variant. |
||||
martin c | 19 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard for VS | ||
Show beta
βeta: Hard for VS |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)