55m, 2 pitches. Classic route which is excellent value for the grade.
Start in the middle of central bay, to the right of the pit. Climb the obvious right facing corner to a peg out left at around 10m. Step left around to the arete and make a hard pull up onto the ledge. From here climb up on easier ground but with little gear, heading for the small tree and good wire placements. Climb the small crack up to the tree, and then traverse left around 3-4 metres until you can step up onto a ledge (bold but easy). Two peg belay and backup advisable (cam in a pocket out right).
From the belay stance step up directly to the obvious break, traverse right to a peg just out of reach, step up for the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue on to a small ledge. Traverse slight left and step up onto to a sentry box (peg) and then continue to follow the easier line until you reach two small trees on a large ledge (belay).
From here you can scramble further up and left over a series of ledges until you reach a bolt. Then continue the scramble until you reach the top, through the bushes you will find offa dykes path which leads back to the road.
βeta:As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.
Show beta βeta:As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.
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