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55m, 2 pitches. Classic route which is excellent value for the grade.

Start in the middle of central bay, to the right of the pit. Climb the obvious right facing corner to a peg out left at around 10m. Step left around to the arete and make a hard pull up onto the ledge. From here climb up on easier ground but with little gear, heading for the small tree and good wire placements. Climb the small crack up to the tree, and then traverse left around 3-4 metres until you can step up onto a ledge (bold but easy). Two peg belay and backup advisable (cam in a pocket out right).

From the belay stance step up directly to the obvious break, traverse right to a peg just out of reach, step up for the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue on to a small ledge. Traverse slight left and step up onto to a sentry box (peg) and then continue to follow the easier line until you reach two small trees on a large ledge (belay).

From here you can scramble further up and left over a series of ledges until you reach a bolt. Then continue the scramble until you reach the top, through the bushes you will find offa dykes path which leads back to the road.

Ticklists

50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Wintours Leap easy multipitch, Orange Spot Lower Wye, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, Ultimate HS ticklist, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below), The post lockdown local list

Feedback

User Date Notes
miriamclaire 30 Aug Show βeta
βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second.
Ander 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below.
jotunscope 23 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places.
 
Show beta
βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places.
Salm0n 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear.
Dom Goodwin 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough!
CasualLime 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.

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