A wonderful route that is one of the finest limestone Hard Severe's in the UK. Continually interesting climbing, route finding and all on great rock. Start under a right-facing corner at the top of an earth bank.
1) 4b, 34m. Climb the corner until just above an overlap (peg on the left wall). Move left to the arete and make a hard pull up onto a ledge. Ascend easier ground leftwards up a groove to a prominent small tree. Traverse left for 3m until it is possible to step up onto the belay ledge (pegs).
2) 4b, 20m. Step up to the break and traverse right to a peg just out of reach. Step up and clip the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue to a small ledge. Traverse slightly left and step up into a sentry box (peg). Pull over the small overhang at the top of the sentry box from where easier climbing gains the large finishing ledge and two small trees.
Descent - Scramble leftwards for around 50m over a series of ledges to gain the cliff top path. It is possible to abseil back down with 60m double ropes from trees on the finishing ledge (avoid abseiling if any other climbers are on the route). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic route which is excellent value for the grade.
Start in the middle of the central bay (at far south bay), to the right of the pit. Climb the obvious right facing corner to a peg out left at around 10m. Make an awkward move left and step left around to the arete and make a hard pull up onto the ledge. From here climb up on easier ground but with little gear, heading for the small tree and good wire placements. Climb the small crack up to the tree, and then traverse left around 3-4 metres until you can step up onto a ledge (bold but easy). Two peg belay and backup advisable (cam in a pocket out right).
From the belay stance step up directly to the obvious break, traverse right to a peg just out of reach, step up for the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue on to a small ledge. Traverse slight left and step up onto to a sentry box (peg) and then continue to follow the easier line until you reach two small trees on a large ledge (belay).
From here you can scramble further up and left over a series of ledges until you reach a bolt. Then continue the scramble until you reach the top, through the bushes you will find offa dykes path, you can then locate the easy way down which is before the lookout, or continue the path which leads back to the road.
You can also abseil back down from two trees on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch, if your ropes are long enough.
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