Rockfax Description
A wonderful route that is one of the finest limestone Hard Severe's in the UK. Continually interesting climbing, route finding and all on great rock. Start under a right-facing corner at the top of an earth bank.
1) 4b, 34m. Climb the corner until just above an overlap (peg on the left wall). Move left to the arete and make a hard pull up onto a ledge. Ascend easier ground leftwards up a groove to a prominent small tree (peg). Traverse left for 3m until it is possible to step up onto the belay ledge (bolt and peg).
2) 4b, 20m. Step up to the break and traverse right to a peg just out of reach. Step up and clip the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue to a small ledge. Traverse slightly left and step up into a sentry box (peg). Pull over the small overhang at the top of the sentry box, from where easier climbing gains the large finishing ledge and two small trees.
Descent - Scramble leftwards for around 50m over a series of ledges to gain the clifftop path. It is also possible to abseil back down with 60m double ropes from trees on the finishing ledge (avoid abseiling if any other climbers are on the route). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A key nut placement after the sapling (suffering from ash dieback) on P1 has been lost to rockfall which would make that section very run out. A peg has been added to keep the route at the same grade and character, the route is fine to climb again. 30/05/2022
Ticklists
50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Wintours Leap easy multipitch , Orange Spot Lower Wye , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , Ultimate HS ticklist , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , The post lockdown local list , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , HS-HVS adventures , First trad routes , Wintour's leap
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 30 Nov, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Reading the other recent feedback comments - my personal view (which may be unpopular!) is that the abseil point should not be replaced - the scramble off is fine and completes the route nicely - and will clean up to its former state if there is no alternative. I think abseiling off this route has too much potential for tangling up leaders below (who you can\'t necessarily see), together with potential problems with stuck (have seen this!) or too short (thankfully haven\'t seen this!) ropes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Reading the other recent feedback comments - my personal view (which may be unpopular!) is that the abseil point should not be replaced - the scramble off is fine and completes the route nicely - and will clean up to its former state if there is no alternative. I think abseiling off this route has too much potential for tangling up leaders below (who you can't necessarily see), together with potential problems with stuck (have seen this!) or too short (thankfully haven't seen this!) ropes. |
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| ClimberCoutts | 16 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: 2 trees on finishing ledge have been cut down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 2 trees on finishing ledge have been cut down. |
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| jon59 | 7 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: The two normal abseil trees have been cut down!, I know they were looking rather tired however the only options are either keep climbing or abseil from the one remaining tree which is equally as tired. Can the BMC add two abseil bolts?. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The two normal abseil trees have been cut down!, I know they were looking rather tired however the only options are either keep climbing or abseil from the one remaining tree which is equally as tired. Can the BMC add two abseil bolts?. |
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| Emile.swain | 1 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Type 2 fun. Led pitch 2. Ooooh Myyyy. 2nd’d a Wet pitch 1, mud in holds. Crazy scary, lead has balls of steel. 2nd pitch very exposed but nice moves. I would say if you lead HS/VS this may feel like HVS. Also no ab point, the two trees have been chopped down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Type 2 fun. Led pitch 2. Ooooh Myyyy. 2nd’d a Wet pitch 1, mud in holds. Crazy scary, lead has balls of steel. 2nd pitch very exposed but nice moves. I would say if you lead HS/VS this may feel like HVS. Also no ab point, the two trees have been chopped down. |
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| El Rabano | 1 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The lower dihedral of P1 was very wet and scary AF. Used up all of my calm, cool and collected batteries and went gear-happy on the upper section of P1. Nice lead, in retrospect! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The lower dihedral of P1 was very wet and scary AF. Used up all of my calm, cool and collected batteries and went gear-happy on the upper section of P1. Nice lead, in retrospect! |
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| beardy mike | 18 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseil trees to the right of the last belay are suffering from Ash Dieback. Cord is in place with maillions. Worth inspecting the trees before abseiling, and maybe BMC should consider abseil bolts to serve Puma, Guytha Zelda etc as there don't seem to be many options for belay gear for these routes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abseil trees to the right of the last belay are suffering from Ash Dieback. Cord is in place with maillions. Worth inspecting the trees before abseiling, and maybe BMC should consider abseil bolts to serve Puma, Guytha Zelda etc as there don't seem to be many options for belay gear for these routes. |
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| TheLadd | 13 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: A soggy doormat at the bottom of the route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A soggy doormat at the bottom of the route |
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| BenF2001 | 26 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: First corner was like climbing a waterfall, in to some decent run out. Second pitch was worth the sketchy start, but it's a tad run out. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: First corner was like climbing a waterfall, in to some decent run out. Second pitch was worth the sketchy start, but it's a tad run out. |
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| BStar | 18 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Went and checked out the pegs again, following a comment on here. The pegs are fine, there is one thin knifeblade peg that flexes when pushed, as most of this size would do, this is an original peg and replacing it may damage the placement. There is a small wire and a horizontal break that will take a cam just below it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Went and checked out the pegs again, following a comment on here. The pegs are fine, there is one thin knifeblade peg that flexes when pushed, as most of this size would do, this is an original peg and replacing it may damage the placement. There is a small wire and a horizontal break that will take a cam just below it. |
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| BStar | 30 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseiled in to look at the loose rock mentioned below. Removed the remaining loose blocks and the smaller bits around it. There was a substantial quantity of soil behind the blocks which I've mostly managed to clear away. A key nut placement after the sapling (suffering from ash dieback) on P1 has been lost which would make that section very run out. A peg has been added to keep the route at the same grade and character, the route is fine to climb again. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Abseiled in to look at the loose rock mentioned below. Removed the remaining loose blocks and the smaller bits around it. There was a substantial quantity of soil behind the blocks which I've mostly managed to clear away. A key nut placement after the sapling (suffering from ash dieback) on P1 has been lost which would make that section very run out. A peg has been added to keep the route at the same grade and character, the route is fine to climb again. |
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| David Clover | 29 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall pitch 1! Loose rock section a little above the prominent sapling on pitch one. Used to be a key nut placement, but it shifted when I seated a nut behind it today. Some hundred kgs of loose blocks came away today and I cleared it up as best I could. Seems safer now but a blanker slab. Loose dirt and pebbles remain. May be vs now?! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfall pitch 1! Loose rock section a little above the prominent sapling on pitch one. Used to be a key nut placement, but it shifted when I seated a nut behind it today. Some hundred kgs of loose blocks came away today and I cleared it up as best I could. Seems safer now but a blanker slab. Loose dirt and pebbles remain. May be vs now?! |
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| wilsers | 22 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil/belay trees are Ash and have suffered from die back. Good cracks in the back wall for building a belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil/belay trees are Ash and have suffered from die back. Good cracks in the back wall for building a belay. |
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| Will789 | 29 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 50m ropes reach the floor with a few metres to spare using the ab tat | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 50m ropes reach the floor with a few metres to spare using the ab tat |
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| emmaharrington | 6 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch: Awkward move, moving from the crack out left to the face with the peg. Second pitch: Exposed and a bit run-out, with pegs. Maybe a bit harder than other HS 4b's we've done. We abseiled back down from the two trees on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch (we had 60 m ropes). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch: Awkward move, moving from the crack out left to the face with the peg. Second pitch: Exposed and a bit run-out, with pegs. Maybe a bit harder than other HS 4b's we've done. We abseiled back down from the two trees on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch (we had 60 m ropes). |
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| widdlestickmcpoos | 24 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can belay of tat and mailon, no need to walk off. Need 50m ropes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can belay of tat and mailon, no need to walk off. Need 50m ropes. |
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| miriamclaire | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second. |
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| Ander | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below. |
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| jotunscope | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places. |
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| Salm0n | 16 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear. |
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| Dom Goodwin | 16 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough! |
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| CasualLime | 27 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Left Hand Route
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)