A wonderful route that is one of the finest limestone Hard Severe's in the UK. Continually interesting climbing, route finding and all on great rock. Start under a right-facing corner at the top of an earth bank.
1) 4b, 34m. Climb the corner until just above an overlap (peg on the left wall). Move left to the arete and make a hard pull up onto a ledge. Ascend easier ground leftwards up a groove to a prominent small tree. Traverse left for 3m until it is possible to step up onto the belay ledge (pegs).
2) 4b, 20m. Step up to the break and traverse right to a peg just out of reach. Step up and clip the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue to a small ledge. Traverse slightly left and step up into a sentry box (peg). Pull over the small overhang at the top of the sentry box from where easier climbing gains the large finishing ledge and two small trees.
Descent - Scramble leftwards for around 50m over a series of ledges to gain the cliff top path. It is possible to abseil back down with 60m double ropes from trees on the finishing ledge (avoid abseiling if any other climbers are on the route). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A key nut placement after the sapling (suffering from ash dieback) on P1 has been lost to rockfall which would make that section very run out. A peg has been added to keep the route at the same grade and character, the route is fine to climb again. 30/05/2022
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