UKC

Contributed by Martin Southville Aug/21 - This public ticklist has been seen 1,568 times

Routes graded Hard-Severe are rare in Avon Gorge but rather pleasingly they are distributed evenly across all sections and thus make for a very expansive tour. With 14 on the Portway side (the road with cars) and 5 on the tow path side (the hard track for bicycles) I (Martin) have made a personal mission to climb them all.

⚠️There is some serious esoterica on this list! Some of these routes have proven incredibly hard to find (Greased Lightening Crack and Drypass were 2 particularly slippery kippers) but the hunt is all part of the adventure for me. Convenience is over-rated.

Notes
- Nightmare (S) becomes an HS when the first pitch is climbed with the variation described in Avon Gorge Guidebook (page 130).
- Dexter is a VS in the Avon Gorge Guidebook which I think is more appropriate given the run-out slab on pitch 2.
- Direct Route is only HS grade when done using the Direct Start variation.
- The Gangway is a HS in Avon Gorge Guidebook (it seems wrongly graded as a Severe on UKC and logbook comments seem to confirm so).

Not included
- Fir Tree Buttress (HS) is not included as many people have warned off doing it, reporting it to be bad climbing and dangerous, relying on ab'ing off a dead bush at the top.
- Vibrator (HS) on Railway Tunnel Walls (Page 315 in book) is permanently restricted and so not included in this list to enable you to achieve 100% complete without breaking the law.

Thanks to Simon P and Dom G for finding some hidden little nuggets in the guidebook and suggesting them. Your truffling pleases the completionist within me.

Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge  © Martin Southville
Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge
© Martin Southville, Aug 2021

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Repeat lead 38 years after my first ascent. © Sully

Sinister
Repeat lead 38 years after my first ascent.
© Sully

Even Jesus needs a helmet © Derry

Nightmare
Even Jesus needs a helmet
© Derry

My sister's first Avon outing © Thin Boyz

Nightmare
My sister's first Avon outing
© Thin Boyz

Feeling Bold on Sinister © Feeling bold

Sinister
Feeling Bold on Sinister
© Feeling bold

Kerri on Dexter - run out! © ianlaw

Dexter
Kerri on Dexter - run out!
© ianlaw

Ian leading Direct Route © SamanthaRoach12

Direct Route
Ian leading Direct Route
© SamanthaRoach12

Chris climbing Arete with Cave © Jim blackford

Arête With Cave
Chris climbing Arete with Cave
© Jim blackford

Starting pitch two of Dexter © MarkH55

Dexter
Starting pitch two of Dexter
© MarkH55

Robert Halls on Sinister HS at Avon gorge © alasdaircavaye

Sinister
Robert Halls on Sinister HS at Avon gorge
© alasdaircavaye

The "porthole" on P2, complete with crystals at the back. © Dave Ing

Sinister
The "porthole" on P2, complete with crystals at the back.
© Dave Ing

Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge © Martin Southville

Good Morning You
Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge
© Martin Southville

Remaims of the tree on p3 of Nightmare. A landmark in the guidebooks but now gone. A bolted lower-off has appeared. © Martin Southville

Nightmare
Remaims of the tree on p3 of Nightmare. A landmark in the guidebooks but now gone. A bolted lower-off has appeared.
© Martin Southville


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
SEA WALLS
Eros HS 4b 60 15m Avon Gorge (Sea...
Nightmare S 4a ** 1801 50m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Tigger HS 4a 179 25m Avon Gorge (Sea...
MAIN AREA
Breakfast Ledge Access Route HS 4b 7 20m Avon Gorge (Main...
Sinister HS 4b ** 1410 52m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Good Morning You HS 4b 14 40m Avon Gorge (Main...
Dexter VS 4b * 949 51m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct Route S 4a * 1254 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Central Gully HS 4a * 309 80m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Greased Lightning Crack HS 4a 8 6m Avon Gorge (Main...
SUSPENSION BRIDGE AREA
Fossible HS 4c * 101 35m • 2 Avon Gorge...
The Gangway S 4a 24 40m Avon Gorge...
Cave Left HS 4a * 43 20m Avon Gorge...
Drypass HS 4b * 7 25m Avon Gorge...
COFFEE HOUSE CRAG (RIGHT NEXT TO TOW PATH)
Black Slab HS 4a 4 12m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 5
Arête With Cave HS 4a * 15 28m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 4
Footloose HS 4a - 20m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 1
Crumble HS 4b * 55 55m • 2 Leigh Woods
Explosion Groove HS 4a - 55m • 2 Leigh Woods
12 stars 6,240 656m 29
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