Topping out, avon gorge, beautiful spring evening.
© ruaidh, Apr 2011

Every HS in Avon Gorge ticklist

contributed by Martin Southville Aug/21

HS is a rare grade in Avon Gorge. Only 14 routes at that grade on the Portway side and 4 over on the tow path side! Why not climb them all?

- Nightmare (S) becomes an HS when the first pitch is climbed with the variation described in Avon Gorge Guidebook (page 130).
- Dexter is a VS in the Avon Gorge Guidebook which I think is more appropriate given the run-out slab on pitch 2.
- Direct Route is only HS grade when done using the Direct Start variation.
- The Gangway is a HS in Avon Gorge Guidebook (it seems wrongly graded as a Severe on UKC and logbook comments seem to confirm so).

Not included
- Fir Tree Buttress (HS) is not included as many people have warned off doing it, reporting it to be bad climbing and dangerous, relying on ab'ing off a dead bush at the top.
- Vibrator (HS) on Railway Tunnel Walls (Page 315 in book) is permanently restricted and so not included in this list to enable you to achieve 100% complete without breaking the law.

Thanks to Simon P and Dom G for finding some hidden little nuggets in the guidebook and suggesting them. You please the completionist in me.

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Dom Goodwin 83% 28 Apr
2 Dunthemall 61% 12 Jun, 2017
3 steve_gibbs 55% 3 Feb, 2021
4 Hidden 50% 16 Sep, 2021
5 perrettsim 44% 3 Apr
6 baldOrangutan 44% 5 May
7 phildavies84 33% 9 Jun, 2021
8 Trevers 33% 27 Feb
9 alasdaircavaye 33% 22 Jan
10 rowanbrandreth 27% 28 Jan

Map of routes in this ticklist

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Eros HS 4b 44 15m Avon Gorge (Sea...
Nightmare S 4a ** 1436 50m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Tigger HS 4a 108 25m Avon Gorge (Sea...
Breakfast Ledge Access Route HS 4b 4 20m Avon Gorge (Main...
Sinister HS 4b ** 1131 52m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Good Morning You HS 4b 9 40m Avon Gorge (Main...
Dexter HS 4b * 807 51m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct Route S 4a * 994 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Central Gully HS 4a 227 80m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Greased Lightning Crack HS 4a 7 6m Avon Gorge (Main...
Fossible HS 4c * 92 35m • 2 Avon Gorge...
The Gangway S 4a 19 40m Avon Gorge...
Cave Left HS 4a * 38 20m Avon Gorge...
Drypass HS 4b * 7 25m Avon Gorge...
Black Slab HS 4a 3 12m Leigh Woods
ArĂȘte With Cave HS 4a * 10 28m Leigh Woods
Footloose HS 4a - 20m Leigh Woods
Crumble HS 4b * 36 55m • 2 Leigh Woods
11 stars 4,972 601m 27
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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