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Greg romping No.3
© Deezel65, Oct 2020

The Peg-Pocketeer ticklist

contributed by cheque Apr/22

From the 2005 Burbage, Millstone and Beyond guide.

“The steep quarried walls of Millstone and Lawrencefield are home to a very particular style of climbing- peg-scar cranking. These are the holes eked out of hairline cracks by the aid climbers of the 1950s that these days are more welcoming to fingers and toes. The climbing on these routes tends to be pumpy and powerful due to a usual lack of footholds, and on steeper walls turns quite savage. However, there are few things more thrilling than scorching up an otherwise blank wall of grit, cranking out long reaches, fussing in good protection, with that ever-threatening pump approaching. Below is a series of tests of this style, to see if you are a peg-pocketeer.”

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Once Pegged Wall VS 5a * 1111 10m Lawrencefield
Delectable Direct E1 5c ** 688 15m Lawrencefield
Supra Direct HVS 5b * 646 20m Millstone Edge
Two Shot Holes f5+ * 39 ? Millstone Edge
Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 2353 26m • 2 Millstone Edge
Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 645 34m Millstone Edge
Dextrous Hare E3 5c ** 236 16m Millstone Edge
Boulevard E3 6a ** 360 18m Lawrencefield
Coventry Street E5 6b ** 198 22m Millstone Edge
London Wall E5 6a *** 211 22m Millstone Edge
20 e, 20 stars 6,487 183m 11
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