UKC

SIBL Round 3 Report

On the 1st November the third round of SIBL took place at The Westway Sports Centre. The action kicked off at 11am with over 130 competitors turning up to battle it out. Problems had been set on both the bouldering walls with grades ranging from easy-angled slabs to ferocious overhanging V8's. The Comp Room is renowned for its scary top moves but competitors seem undeterred as they launched themselves into the problems, with some of the younger juniors as determined as the more experience competitors to latch those final holds.

The Westway squad performed well on their home ground with all members getting great results. There were however one or two problems which made for some interesting climbing including problem 15 which went straight through the main roof of the feature wall. This route had a nasty sloping stalactite of a hold in the middle of the roof which spat most climbers off with the except of a few including Richard Bartlett and Bodley Zhang who somehow managed to squeeze hard enough to finish the route. Mike Langley, the head route setter at The Castle, and Gaz Parry made an appearance with Gaz climbing in his trainers still managing to get a very respectable score of 166! DMM, the sponsors of the round were there all day with some of their latest gear on display as well as some free giveaways for all.

At the end there were a lot of exhausted looking faces eager to see who had won the hardest round yet of this years series. Before the results were announced we had the head-to-head sponsored by DreamHolds. The top five open scores battled it out on a timed V4 problem set in the Comp Room. This ended with a superfast ascent by Bodley Zhang of just over 9 seconds from start to finish!

The winners were then announced and Dave Noddings from DMM and sponsored DMM climber Gaz Parry handed out the prizes.

Male Open

  1. Bodley Zhang 181
  2. Richard Bartlett 168
  3. Sam Cox 162

Female Open

  1. Laura Ashley 142
  2. Suzie Zitter 131
  3. Clara Vergaz 109

Male Junior

  1. Jonny White 156
  2. Henry Forrester 148
  3. Ed Ratcliff 145

Female Junior

  1. Kitty Wallace 172
  2. Storme Biggs 122
  3. Molly Thompson Smith 100

Head to head winner

Bodley Zhang – 9 seconds

SIBL would like to thank The Westway for all its helping in organising the round as well as DMM and Dave Noddings for there kind sponsorship. The next round is at the Castle on the 12th December 2009 were we have some special after comp activities going on including lectures by Steve McClure and the third year of the Castle Christmas Party running till 1am. Check out the SIBL website for more details of the rest of this years series including interviews with some of the route setters and wall managers that make the SIBL the fantastic climbing comp it is today.

The SIBL 2009/10 series is sponsored by UKClimbing.com / DMM / Wild Country / Lyon / La Sportiva / Julbo / Petzl / Moon / Metolius / Evolv / Epic Adventures and Dream Holds.


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