UKC

Adam Ondra attempts to onsight Psikoterapia, 9aVideo

© Desnivel.com
Björn Pohl UKC

This has been read 10,876 times

Recently Adam Ondra onsighted Il Domani, 9a, in the Baltzola cave. This was his second onsight of the grade and he considers it to be his hardest so far. Two is obviously not enough, so Adam went to Valdegovia to try and make it three.

Being technical, powerful and rather short, only 16 meters, Psikoterapia is not very similar to Il Domani, and this time Adam didn't have the necessary luck to succeed, though by the looks of it he was very close.

Desnivel has an interview (in Spanish) where Adam talks about his onsight of Il Domani, competitions and why he is now being coached by Patxi Usobiaga.

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura

This post has been read 10,876 times

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Adam Ondra

Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

Adam's Athlete Page 140 posts 51 videos

Sponsored by: La Sportiva, Mammut & Montura
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Comments

johncoxmysteriously
10 May, 2014
Brilliant. Looks like he wasn't *that* close to me onsight - roughly speaking to the start of the main difficulties. jcm
mrteale
11 May, 2014
Does anyone know if these top sport climbers downclimb from their high points to ground level several times to get an idea of the moves before committing fully? And then still claim the onsight if they get the route clean? I'm just curious as the way he places his feet and hands in this video is just so, so smooth. He's obviously immense but I'd be a little bit disappointed if that was how all these hard 'on-sights' are done.
Robert Durran
11 May, 2014
There was a great interview with Ondra where he said that to onsight at your limit you have to climb with total conviction; make decisions very quickly and then go with the sequence as if it was on redpoint. Might explain it. I think I'd be almost more impressed! Brilliant video, filmed "as it happened" without gimmicks. Like climbing onsight, so much more exciting than rehearsed stuff. My palms were sweating just watching him psyche up.
FactorXXX
11 May, 2014
As long as any gear isn't weighted what's the problem? It would still be on sight. Saying that, I've got a feeling that Ondra, quite literally rocks up and tries to climb it straight from the ground.
GeneralFifi
11 May, 2014
tbh, I think downclimbing a 9a might be harder than just going for it. Ondra has done so many routes in that level that he's pretty good at predicting the right beta just from looking at the route, I think what he's saying is that once you think of a sequence, just stick with it on the onsight. It might not be the best way to do it, but you've got a bigger chance of success if you don't wait and just go..
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