UKC

Fourth Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Innsbruck

Shauna Coxsey returned to form at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria this weekend - winning her fourth Gold of the season out of the five rounds so far and advancing her lead in the rankings by over 100 points, putting her in a strong position for the overall title with just two rounds to go.

Shauna Coxsey is en route for Tokyo 2020., 183 kb
Shauna Coxsey is en route for Tokyo 2020.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The GB Team performed well as a whole, with a notable achievement for Nathan Phillips, who qualified in 2nd place for the semi-finals in a round which proved tough for even the most seasoned competitors. Leah Crane finished 15th, Michaela Tracy 17th and Tara Hayes 43rd in her first World Cup of the season. Dave Barrans finished in a commendable 12th place - his best result of the season so far. Nathan ended the semi-final round in 17th, ahead of Tyler Landman in 33rd and Billy Ridal in 41st out of a large field of over 100 competitors.

With the addition of Megan Mascarenas (USA) and Janja Garnbret (SLO) competing in this round, the women's final arguably consisted of the strongest lineup of climbers so far, with former overall World Cup winners Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Anna Stöhr (AUT) also in the running. Following her 9th place in Mumbai last weekend - where hot and humid conditions proved challenging - Shauna more than made up for the slight blip in her winning streak, flashing three of the four problems with ease. 17 year-old Janja and 18 year-old Miho Nonaka (JPN) - winner in Mumbai - weren't too far behind in 2nd and 3rd place, with Janja requiring just two more attempts than Shauna to climb all four problems and Miho five more attempts. Megan Mascarenas appeared to be Shauna's main competition up until the third boulder - having smoothly flashed the first two - until she failed to complete the final two problems.

Men's Podium: Narasaki, Chon, McColl, 164 kb
Men's Podium: Narasaki, Chon, McColl
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the men's final, Jongwon Chon (KOR) stunned the crowd by completing three out of four boulders in an incredibly tough round. Winner in Mumbai, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), came 2nd with two problems completed and Sean McColl (CAN) managed third place with just one top. Triple dynos, technical slabs and tricky volumes set the tone of a round requiring exceptional balance and coordination. Tomoa currently leads the men's overall ranking by a mere nine points, ahead of Kokoro Fujii (JPN) and Alexey Rubtsov (RUS).

Jongwon Chon suitably happy with an outstanding performance on P1, 107 kb
Jongwon Chon suitably happy with an outstanding performance on P1
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round is in Vail, Colorado on 11th/12th June.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2016

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 5t5 5b5 4t8 4b8 4t8 4b8
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 5t5 5b5 4t7 4b7 4t10 4b9
3 Miho NONAKA JPN 5t8 5b7 4t6 4b5 4t13 4b10
4 Megan Mascarenas USA 5t9 5b9 4t6 4b6 2t2 3b3
5 Anna Stöhr AUT 5t5 5b5 4t8 4b8 2t11 4b8
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5t9 5b9 4t4 4b4 1t3 2b2
7 Sol Sa KOR 5t10 5b9 4t6 4b6 0t 3b3
8 Melissa Le Neve FRA 5t5 5b5 3t3 4b4  
9 Stasa Gejo SRB 4t9 5b10 3t4 4b5  
10 Jessica Pilz AUT 5t7 5b7 3t7 4b8  
11 Katharina Posch AUT 3t5 4b5 3t8 3b7  
12 Monika Retschy GER 5t7 5b6 3t10 4b9  
13 Petra Klingler SUI 4t4 5b5 2t2 4b6  
13 Berit Schwaiger AUT 3t5 5b8 2t2 4b6  
15 Leah Crane GBR 4t8 5b7 2t4 4b5  
16 Katharina Saurwein AUT 4t5 5b6 2t4 4b7  
17 Michaela Tracy GBR 4t6 5b9 2t5 4b7  
18 Tjasa Slemensek SLO 4t7 4b6 2t7 3b9  
19 Alannah Yip CAN 4t7 5b8 1t1 4b5  
20 Ekaterina Andreeva RUS 4t7 5b6 1t3 4b12  
43 Tara Hayes GBR 2t3 4b8    
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Jongwon CHON KOR 5t12 5b11 4t8 4b7 3t4 3b4
2 Tomoa NARASAKI JPN 5t8 5b8 2t2 4b5 2t9 4b13
3 Sean McColl CAN 4t8 5b5 4t5 4b5 1t3 2b4
4 Rolands Rugens LAT 4t11 4b8 2t2 4b6 1t3 2b8
5 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 3t7 5b13 3t5 4b7 0t 2b10
6 Martin Stranik CZE 4t6 5b8 2t2 4b4 0t 0b
7 Manuel Cornu FRA 5t10 5b10 2t3 4b5  
8 Thomas Caleyron FRA 3t7 5b9 2t4 3b6  
9 Mickael MAWEM FRA 3t7 5b13 2t4 3b8  
10 Kokoro FUJII JPN 3t3 5b6 2t5 4b5  
11 Alban LEVIER FRA 5t9 5b8 2t5 4b7  
12 David Barrans GBR 3t7 4b7 2t5 3b3  
13 Stefan Scarperi ITA 5t10 5b10 2t6 4b9  
14 Jernej Kruder SLO 4t5 5b5 1t1 4b4  
15 Gabriele Moroni ITA 5t8 5b6 1t1 4b5  
16 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 5t5 5b5 1t1 4b10  
17 Nathan Phillips GBR 5t6 5b6 1t1 3b3  
17 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 5t7 5b7 1t1 3b3  
19 Kipras Baltrunas LTU 5t10 5b8 1t1 2b2  
20 Andre Difelice CAN 5t10 5b7 1t2 4b7  
33 Tyler Landman GBR 4t5 5b6    
41 William Ridal GBR 1t1 3b7    
Full results

Watch the highlights from the finals below:

 

Shauna is sponsored by: Five Ten, Just Kampers, Red Bull, The Climbing Hangar and adidas



Forums 2 comments

This has been read 6,861 times
Return to News from April 2018

Related posts