IFSC Boulder World Cup: Chongqing - Report

The second round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Chongqing, China last weekend. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey took 2nd place behind 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret, who dominated each stage to earn her first World Cup win. The Japanese team were once again a force to contend with in the men's event, but it was Korea's Jongwon Chon who took Gold ahead of Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) and Alexei Rubtsov (RUS).

Jongwon Chon proved unstoppable in Chongqing, 112 kb
Jongwon Chon proved unstoppable in Chongqing
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Sweltering conditions across each round coupled with powerful, dynamic setting meant a tough competition in general for the competitors.

Having flashed all qualification boulders and topped everything in the semi-finals, Janja looked set to give Shauna a good battle in the final round. With a top of W1, Janja set the standard for the rest of the round and gave herself an early lead. Closely following her on the remaining problems were Shauna and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), who both topped the three remaining problems. Shauna's smooth flash of W4 put the pressure on Janja to top, which she managed after a few attempts. Canada's Alannah Yip was competing in her first ever World Cup final and placed 5th, becoming the first Canadian female to make a final. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals in 2nd place in her group and placed 15th overall in the semis.

Women's podium: Coxsey, Garnbret, Noguchi, 213 kb
Women's podium: Coxsey, Garnbret, Noguchi
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the Men's event, the entire Japanese men's team qualified for the semi-finals and made up half of the finals line up. The final was an exciting play off between Alexei Rubtsov, Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki. Jongwon completed all 4 problems and was the only competitor to top W3, a delicate slab which required 'crab-like' movement and perfect balance. The burly M4 - with knee bars and compression moves - saw tops from Jongwon and Japanese team member Keita Watabe only.

The following round will take place in Nanjing, China next weekend.

Men's podium: Narasaki, Chon, Rubtsov, 213 kb
Men's podium: Narasaki, Chon, Rubtsov
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Shauna Coxsey on the powerful W1 in the final, 166 kb
Shauna Coxsey on the powerful W1 in the final
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4t5 4b5 4t11 4b7
2 Shauna Coxsey GBR 2t3 3b12 3t4 4b5
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 3b18 3t13 4b13
4 Anna Stöhr AUT 2t7 3b8 1t3 3b6
5 Alannah Yip CAN 2t8 3b9 1t3 3b8
6 Stasa Gejo SRB 2t5 3b6 1t4 3b7
7 Petra Klingler SUI 2t11 4b13
8 Chloe Caulier BEL 2t13 4b15
9 Miho Nonaka JPN 2t14 4b16
10 Monika Retschy GER 1t1 1b1
11 Katja Kadic SLO 1t2 2b4
12 Fanny Gibert FRA 1t3 2b4
13 Sol Sa KOR 1t4 2b4
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 1t5 2b6
15 Michaela Tracy GBR 1t7 4b18
16 Hung Ying Lee TPE 1t11 2b13
17 Katharina Posch AUT 0t 2b5
18 Manon Hily FRA 0t 2b6
18 Jain Kim KOR 0t 2b6
20 Mei Kotake JPN 0t 2b9
33 Leah Crane GBR Qual' 1t4 4b11
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jongwon Chon KOR 2t5 3b6 4t6 4b5
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t6 3b5 2t2 3b3
3 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 1t1 3b7 2t2 3b3
4 Keita Watabe JPN 2t7 3b6 1t1 3b3
5 Kai Harada JPN 2t6 3b6 1t1 3b4
6 Manuel Cornu FRA 2t9 2b8 1t4 3b8
7 Tsukuru Hori JPN 1t2 3b6
8 Jakob Schubert AUT 1t2 2b6
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1t3 3b5
10 David Firnenburg GER 1t3 2b2
11 Rei Sugimoto JPN 1t5 3b9
12 Jan Hojer GER 1t5 3b10
13 Nicolas Pelorson FRA 1t6 3b5
14 Rolands Rugens LAT 0t 3b8
15 Meichi Narasaki JPN 0t 3b12
16 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN 0t 2b3
17 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 0t 2b5
18 Kaito Watanabe JPN 0t 2b10
19 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 0t 1b2
20 Vadim Timonov RUS 0t 1b5
29 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 3t8 4b10
71 Orrin Coley GBR Qual' 0t 3b16
Full results

Watch the full finals replay below:

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