UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup: Nanjing - Report

The third round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Nanjing, China last weekend. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey took 1st place once again this series with a convincing win ahead of 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret. The Japanese team were on top form once again, with six team members in the finals across both categories and Keita Watabe earning his first Gold in an IFSC World Cup.

Women's Podium: Nanjing - Garnbret, Coxsey, Nonaka, 232 kb
Women's Podium: Nanjing - Garnbret, Coxsey, Nonaka
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

As in Chongqing last weekend, temperatures were high and the finals proved an exciting affair with plenty of dynamic boulders. Janja looked set to give Shauna a good battle once again, with a smooth flash of the first problem. However, Shauna's flash of W2 and three more tops across the rest of the round - including an impressive one-arm pull up on W4 and a tricky slab flash on W3 - saw her finish on top of the podium. She currently leads Janja in the overall standings by 53 points. Miho Nonaka of Japan also topped W3 and finished 3rd with two tops narrowly missing 2nd place as she wasn't awarded a top for matching the wrong part of the last volume. Korean climber Jain Kim - typically a highly decorated lead competitor - competed in her first IFSC Bouldering World Cup finals since 2012 and mastered the powerful sequence on W4 for 4th place. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals in 4th place in her group and placed 11th overall in the semis. 

The first problem for the men was technical, and only Japanese teammates Keita Watabe and Tomoa Narasaki stuck the balancey move to the bonus hold. Keita powered through M2 and Bronze medallist Jernej Kruder of Slovenia also topped. All three athletes completed a dynamic M3, but Keita secured his first IFSC Bouldering World Cup victory by flashing M4. Narasaki and Chongqing winner Jongwon Chon also flashed the last problem for 2nd and 4th place respectively. Great Britain's Nathan Phillips achieved his best ever result in an IFSC event, qualifying for semis and placing 14th overall.

The following round will take place in Tokyo, Japan next weekend.

Men's Podium: Nanjing - Watabe, Narasaki, Kruder, 204 kb
Men's Podium: Nanjing - Watabe, Narasaki, Kruder
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Nanjing (CHN) 2017

For IFSC Speed World Cup results, click here.

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 1t1 3b3 4t12 4b12
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 3t12 4b11 3t7 3b7
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 2t13 4b13 2t6 4b15
4 Jain Kim KOR 1t3 2b3 1t5 2b11
5 Aya Onoe JPN 1t2 3b8 0t 3b8
6 Mei Kotake JPN 2t7 3b8 0t 1b3
7 Katja Kadic SLO 1t4 4b11  
8 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t5 3b6  
9 Petra Klingler SUI 1t5 3b8  
10 Stasa Gejo SRB 1t6 2b7  
11 Michaela Tracy GBR 1t12 3b10  
12 Fanny Gibert FRA 0t 3b4  
13 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 0t 3b7  
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 0t 3b8  
15 Monika Retschy GER 0t 2b3  
15 Chloe Caulier BEL 0t 2b3  
17 Sol Sa KOR 0t 2b10  
18 Megan Mascarenas USA 0t 1b1  
18 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA 0t 1b1  
18 Maëlys Agrapart FRA 0t 1b1  
33 Leah Crane GBR Qual' 2t2 4b4
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Keita Watabe JPN 3t8 3b6 4t9 4b8
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t7 4b10 3t6 4b7
3 Jernej Kruder SLO 2t5 4b8 2t5 3b5
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 2t4 2b2 1t1 3b8
5 Manuel Cornu FRA 2t5 4b7 0t 3b3
6 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t6 4b8 0t 3b4
7 Jan Hojer GER 2t15 4b20  
8 David Firnenburg GER 1t2 2b2  
9 Tsukuru Hori JPN 1t5 2b3  
10 Vadim Timonov RUS 1t6 4b17  
11 Meichi Narasaki JPN 1t7 3b9  
11 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1t7 3b9  
13 Rolands Rugens LAT 0t 4b12  
14 Nathan Phillips GBR 0t 3b7  
15 Kai Harada JPN 0t 3b8  
16 Riccardo Piazza ITA 0t 3b9  
17 Tyler Landman GBR 0t 3b12  
18 Sean McColl CAN 0t 3b13  
19 Sergii Topishko UKR 0t 2b2  
20 Alfons Dornauer AUT 0t 2b13  
69 Orrin Coley GBR Qual' 0t 1b6
Full results

Watch the full finals replay below:



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