The third round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Nanjing, China last weekend. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey took 1st place once again this series with a convincing win ahead of 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret. The Japanese team were on top form once again, with six team members in the finals across both categories and Keita Watabe earning his first Gold in an IFSC World Cup.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC
As in Chongqing last weekend, temperatures were high and the finals proved an exciting affair with plenty of dynamic boulders. Janja looked set to give Shauna a good battle once again, with a smooth flash of the first problem. However, Shauna's flash of W2 and three more tops across the rest of the round - including an impressive one-arm pull up on W4 and a tricky slab flash on W3 - saw her finish on top of the podium. She currently leads Janja in the overall standings by 53 points. Miho Nonaka of Japan also topped W3 and finished 3rd with two tops narrowly missing 2nd place as she wasn't awarded a top for matching the wrong part of the last volume. Korean climber Jain Kim - typically a highly decorated lead competitor - competed in her first IFSC Bouldering World Cup finals since 2012 and mastered the powerful sequence on W4 for 4th place. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals in 4th place in her group and placed 11th overall in the semis.
The first problem for the men was technical, and only Japanese teammates Keita Watabe and Tomoa Narasaki stuck the balancey move to the bonus hold. Keita powered through M2 and Bronze medallist Jernej Kruder of Slovenia also topped. All three athletes completed a dynamic M3, but Keita secured his first IFSC Bouldering World Cup victory by flashing M4. Narasaki and Chongqing winner Jongwon Chon also flashed the last problem for 2nd and 4th place respectively. Great Britain's Nathan Phillips achieved his best ever result in an IFSC event, qualifying for semis and placing 14th overall.
The following round will take place in Tokyo, Japan next weekend.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Nanjing (CHN) 2017
For IFSC Speed World Cup results, click here.
WOMENs bouldering
| Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 1t1 3b3 | 4t12 4b12 |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 3t12 4b11 | 3t7 3b7 |
| 3 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 2t13 4b13 | 2t6 4b15 |
| 4 | Jain Kim | KOR | 1t3 2b3 | 1t5 2b11 |
| 5 | Aya Onoe | JPN | 1t2 3b8 | 0t 3b8 |
| 6 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 2t7 3b8 | 0t 1b3 |
| 7 | Katja Kadic | SLO | 1t4 4b11 | |
| 8 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 1t5 3b6 | |
| 9 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 1t5 3b8 | |
| 10 | Stasa Gejo | SRB | 1t6 2b7 | |
| 11 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 1t12 3b10 | |
| 12 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 0t 3b4 | |
| 13 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 0t 3b7 | |
| 14 | Ievgeniia Kazbekova | UKR | 0t 3b8 | |
| 15 | Monika Retschy | GER | 0t 2b3 | |
| 15 | Chloe Caulier | BEL | 0t 2b3 | |
| 17 | Sol Sa | KOR | 0t 2b10 | |
| 18 | Megan Mascarenas | USA | 0t 1b1 | |
| 18 | Sierra Blair-Coyle | USA | 0t 1b1 | |
| 18 | Maëlys Agrapart | FRA | 0t 1b1 | |
| 33 | Leah Crane | GBR | Qual' 2t2 4b4 | |
MENs bouldering
| Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Keita Watabe | JPN | 3t8 3b6 | 4t9 4b8 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 2t7 4b10 | 3t6 4b7 |
| 3 | Jernej Kruder | SLO | 2t5 4b8 | 2t5 3b5 |
| 4 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 2t4 2b2 | 1t1 3b8 |
| 5 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 2t5 4b7 | 0t 3b3 |
| 6 | Rei Sugimoto | JPN | 2t6 4b8 | 0t 3b4 |
| 7 | Jan Hojer | GER | 2t15 4b20 | |
| 8 | David Firnenburg | GER | 1t2 2b2 | |
| 9 | Tsukuru Hori | JPN | 1t5 2b3 | |
| 10 | Vadim Timonov | RUS | 1t6 4b17 | |
| 11 | Meichi Narasaki | JPN | 1t7 3b9 | |
| 11 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 1t7 3b9 | |
| 13 | Rolands Rugens | LAT | 0t 4b12 | |
| 14 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | 0t 3b7 | |
| 15 | Kai Harada | JPN | 0t 3b8 | |
| 16 | Riccardo Piazza | ITA | 0t 3b9 | |
| 17 | Tyler Landman | GBR | 0t 3b12 | |
| 18 | Sean McColl | CAN | 0t 3b13 | |
| 19 | Sergii Topishko | UKR | 0t 2b2 | |
| 20 | Alfons Dornauer | AUT | 0t 2b13 | |
| 69 | Orrin Coley | GBR | Qual' 0t 1b6 | |
Watch the full finals replay below:
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