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IFSC Boulder World Cup: Meiringen Report

© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Despite the ongoing IFSC and Flosports livestreaming debacle, the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup kicked off in Meiringen, Switzerland and was free to watch live on Youtube as a compromise whilst discussions continue. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey bounced back to form following her recovery from shoulder surgery at the end of last season, taking the win with a very convincing lead ahead of her competitors. The Japanese team continued their meteoric rise ahead of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, with one third of the finalists representing Japan and Kokoro Fujii taking Gold.

Shauna Coxsey returns to form after her injury  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Shauna Coxsey returns to form after her injury
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Having topped the qualification rankings and placed third in the semi-finals, Shauna looked composed throughout the competition, but truly came into her own in the final - topping all four problems. Austria's Katharina Sauerwein placed 2nd, topping two out of the four boulders. Notable absences from the final were Japan's Akiyo Noguchi - who narrowly missed out on semi-finals in 21st place - and multi-World Cup winner Anna Stohr who finished 43rd.

Commenting on Facebook, Shauna was elated with her win:

In the Men's event, the difficulty of the final problems resulted in few tops. Kokoro Fujii's quick flash of problem three secured him the win ahead of Russia's Alexei Rubtsov and his Japanese teammate Keita Watabe. Half of the men's final field were Japanese, with a staggering nine Japanese competitors in total making the top 30 rankings.

The next round will take place in Chongqing, China on 22nd-23rd April followed by Nanjing the next weekend.

***

Regarding the livestreaming debate, it is not yet clear if and how the deal will be renegociated or how the following rounds will be broadcast, although it appears that a subscription will still be necessary for livestreams and replays whatever happens. Creator of the petition against the deal with Flosports, Peter Crane has found the IFSC to be evasive in their responses and has updated the petition - which now stands at over 12,000 signatories - with the following blog post. Read his opinion piece for UKC. Competitors staged a protest during the opening ceremony at Meiringen, where they held up red cards to garner the attention of the IFSC.

Results

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t7 3b7 4t10 4b8
2 Katharina Saurwein AUT 2t3 3b8 2t6 3b13
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 4t9 4b9 1t2 3b6
4 Stasa Gejo SRB 3t5 3b3 1t3 3b3
5 Petra Klingler SUI 2t2 4b9 1t3 2b3
6 Janja Garnbret SLO 3t9 3b7 0t 2b4
7 Michaela Tracy GBR 2t4 3b7
8 Fanny Gibert FRA 2t6 4b8
9 Sol Sa KOR 2t7 2b3
10 Andrea Kümin SUI 1t1 4b13
11 Manon Hily FRA 1t1 3b8
12 Hannah Meul GER 1t1 2b2
13 Alma Bestvater GER 1t1 2b6
14 Mei Kotake JPN 1t2 2b2
15 Chloe Caulier BEL 1t2 2b3
16 Katja Kadic SLO 0t 2b2
17 Hung Ying Lee TPE 0t 2b5
18 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA 0t 2b6
19 Vita Lukan SLO 0t 2b7
20 Megan Mascarenas USA 0t 1b1
27 Leah Crane GBR Qual' 2t5 4b8
71 Tara Hayes GBR Qual' 0t 2b4

Full results

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2t5 4b9 1t1 3b6
2 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3t9 4b5 1t2 2b8
3 Keita Watabe JPN 2t7 4b5 1t3 2b12
4 Rei Sugimoto JPN 3t7 4b7 1t5 3b7
5 Jernej Kruder SLO 2t4 4b4 0t 2b3
6 David Firnenburg GER 2t3 4b9 0t 1b4
7 Gabriele Moroni ITA 2t7 3b5
8 Rolands Rugens LAT 1t1 4b6
9 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 1t1 4b7
10 Sergii Topishko UKR 1t2 4b9
11 Nicolas Pelorson FRA 1t3 4b13
12 Jongwon Chon KOR 1t3 3b3
13 Jan Hojer GER 1t4 4b7
14 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 0t 4b10
15 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI 0t 4b17
16 Mickael Mawem FRA 0t 3b5
17 Manuel Cornu FRA 0t 3b7
17 Martin Stranik CZE 0t 3b7
19 Meichi Narasaki JPN 0t 3b10
20 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR 0t 3b13
33 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 3t8 3b7
35 William Ridal GBR Qual' 3t5 4b5
49 Tyler Landman GBR Qual' 3t14 5b11
57 Matthew Cousins GBR Qual' 2t6 5b10
65 Orrin Coley GBR Qual' 2t9 2b6
102 David Barrans GBR Qual' 0t 4b8
Full results

Watch the full finals replay below:


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10 Apr, 2017
"where they held up red cards in front of officials." Really, I thought the athletes were all on stage and just held thier cards up for an excellent photo op. The cards were not directed at the officials!.
10 Apr, 2017
Well if true that a subscription is definitely required that seems pretty clear. The entire issue is about the subscription vs free livestream. It also seems like the IFSC board meeting on Wednesday won't have any power to change it. So presumably it'll be more about managing the P.R.
11 Apr, 2017
If it is a done deal so to speak, more affirmative action against the decision would be the next step. No one seems to be happy with this arrangement.
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