UKC

Navi Mumbai - Gold and Overall Title for Shauna Coxsey

© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

24 year old Shauna Coxsey from Runcorn took home her 11th IFSC Boulder World Cup Gold this weekend, and clinched the overall 2017 World Cup title for the second year in a row - with one round to spare. In order to defend her 2016 title, Shauna had to return to fitness following a shoulder injury incurred during the final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup last August, for which she required surgery. Shauna dominated each round in Mumbai, topping all four problems in the final and continuing her winning form from last weekend's round in Vail, USA.

Shauna on top of the podium with Miho Nonaka (L) and Akiyo Noguchi (R)  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Shauna on top of the podium with Miho Nonaka (L) and Akiyo Noguchi (R)
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Requiring 9th place or better to secure the overall title, by qualifying for the final Shauna went into isolation in the knowledge that she had sealed the deal. Prior to the finals, Shauna wrote on Facebook:

'The boulders have been so much fun and I am so excited to be heading into finals in first place! I am also totally buzzing about winning the overall! I really had no idea what to expect this season after hurting my shoulder at the final World Cup last year and having surgery. It was a hard time. So much has changed since then. I am still overwhelmed by the support I have received.'

photo
Shauna looking relaxed at Navi Mumbai
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

After giving a gutsy performance in the final despite having already achieved the main objective, Shauna kept the crowd entertained until the very last second, topping the last problem in the nick of time in a perfect end to the event. She summed up her thoughts post-final as follows:

'ECSTATIC! My 11th gold medal and second overall title. I can't believe it!'

Japanese teammates Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi took 2nd and 3rd place respectively behind Shauna. Jongwon Chon of Korea, Rei Sugimoto of Japan and Russian Alexei Rubtsov earned podium places in the men's event. Jongwon currently leads the men's overall ranking, which remains open and will be determined in the final round in Munich.

Fellow GB teammate Leah Crane finished a commendable 11th place after narrowly missing out on finals, and Michaela Tracy placed 13th. 20 year old Billy Ridal reached his first semi-final and finished 20th, with Dave Barrans in 37th place.

The next and final round takes place in Munich, Germany in August. It will also serve as the European Championships.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Navi Mumbai (IND) 2017

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t7 4b7 4t11 4b8
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 3t6 4b7 3t7 4b11
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 3b4 2t3 3b7
4 Petra Klingler SUI 3t5 4b6 1t2 3b4
5 Katja Kadic SLO 2t5 4b9 0t 3b6
6 Aya Onoe JPN 3t9 4b10 0t 1b5
7 Mei Kotake JPN 2t5 4b9
8 Johanna Färber AUT 2t5 4b9
9 Alannah Yip CAN 2t5 3b6
10 Alma Bestvater GER 2t6 4b7
11 Leah Crane GBR 2t6 4b8
12 Julija Kruder SLO 2t6 4b9
13 Michaela Tracy GBR 2t7 4b8
14 Hung Ying Lee TPE 2t8 3b8
15 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 1t1 3b4
16 Monika Retschy GER 1t1 3b4
17 Sol Sa KOR 1t2 4b12
18 Berit Schwaiger AUT 1t4 3b6
19 Elnaz Rekabi IRI 1t9 2b10
20 Chloe Caulier BEL 0t 3b5
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jongwon Chon KOR 2t3 4b7 4t10 4b10
2 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t7 3b5 3t6 3b4
3 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t8 3b7 3t9 3b8
4 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2t5 4b6 1t1 3b9
5 Jakob Schubert AUT 2t5 4b8 1t1 3b11
6 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t7 4b7 1t1 2b2
7 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 2t9 3b4
8 Keita Watabe JPN 1t1 4b6
9 Jernej Kruder SLO 1t1 3b3
10 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 1t2 3b6
11 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI 1t2 3b9
12 Meichi Narasaki JPN 1t3 3b5
13 David Firnenburg GER 1t3 2b2
14 Vadim Timonov RUS 1t3 2b4
15 Anze Peharc SLO 1t7 3b7
16 Simon Unger GER 0t 4b15
17 Jan Hojer GER 0t 3b8
18 Tsukuru Hori JPN 0t 3b10
19 Gregor Vezonik SLO 0t 3b13
20 William Ridal GBR 0t 2b2
37 David Barrans GBR Qual' 1t2 3b8
Full results

Watch the finals replay below:


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 80 posts 18 videos




26 Jun, 2017
With a British athlete defending her World Cup title with one round to spare, I decided that highlighting Shauna's success should take precedence over 'Mumbai World Cup Results' and 'hiding' the result from the few who haven't heard/read the results or watched the competition (It's on the BBC News site too). Unfortunately, concealing the results won't help the sport gain wider press coverage and interest in the UK.
26 Jun, 2017
The right decision IMHO. Curating news to ensure those that see it do so at a time and in a format that suits them is an impossibility. Back on topic, well done to Shauna. Great news.
26 Jun, 2017
When I'm away and there's something on that I want to catch up on later, then I avoid visiting anywhere that's likely to give things away. You can hardly blame a website for devoting a big headline to something of direct relevance to that site, so best not take the risk.
26 Jun, 2017
Maybe we will opt for clickbait style headlines in future: 'You'll never guess who won the IFSC BWC in Munich...'
26 Jun, 2017
Well done Shauna that's a really well deserved win. Boulder 4 was absolutely unbelievable. Natalie also deserves some sort of medal for most restrained response of the year.
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