24 year old Shauna Coxsey from Runcorn took home her 11th IFSC Boulder World Cup Gold this weekend, and clinched the overall 2017 World Cup title for the second year in a row - with one round to spare. In order to defend her 2016 title, Shauna had to return to fitness following a shoulder injury incurred during the final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup last August, for which she required surgery. Shauna dominated each round in Mumbai, topping all four problems in the final and continuing her winning form from last weekend's round in Vail, USA.
Requiring 9th place or better to secure the overall title, by qualifying for the final Shauna went into isolation in the knowledge that she had sealed the deal. Prior to the finals, Shauna wrote on Facebook:
'The boulders have been so much fun and I am so excited to be heading into finals in first place! I am also totally buzzing about winning the overall! I really had no idea what to expect this season after hurting my shoulder at the final World Cup last year and having surgery. It was a hard time. So much has changed since then. I am still overwhelmed by the support I have received.'
After giving a gutsy performance in the final despite having already achieved the main objective, Shauna kept the crowd entertained until the very last second, topping the last problem in the nick of time in a perfect end to the event. She summed up her thoughts post-final as follows:
'ECSTATIC! My 11th gold medal and second overall title. I can't believe it!'
Japanese teammates Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi took 2nd and 3rd place respectively behind Shauna. Jongwon Chon of Korea, Rei Sugimoto of Japan and Russian Alexei Rubtsov earned podium places in the men's event. Jongwon currently leads the men's overall ranking, which remains open and will be determined in the final round in Munich.
Fellow GB teammate Leah Crane finished a commendable 11th place after narrowly missing out on finals, and Michaela Tracy placed 13th. 20 year old Billy Ridal reached his first semi-final and finished 20th, with Dave Barrans in 37th place.
The next and final round takes place in Munich, Germany in August. It will also serve as the European Championships.
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Navi Mumbai (IND) 2017
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 4t7 4b7 | 4t11 4b8 |
2 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 3t6 4b7 | 3t7 4b11 |
3 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 2t3 3b4 | 2t3 3b7 |
4 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 3t5 4b6 | 1t2 3b4 |
5 | Katja Kadic | SLO | 2t5 4b9 | 0t 3b6 |
6 | Aya Onoe | JPN | 3t9 4b10 | 0t 1b5 |
7 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 2t5 4b9 | |
8 | Johanna Färber | AUT | 2t5 4b9 | |
9 | Alannah Yip | CAN | 2t5 3b6 | |
10 | Alma Bestvater | GER | 2t6 4b7 | |
11 | Leah Crane | GBR | 2t6 4b8 | |
12 | Julija Kruder | SLO | 2t6 4b9 | |
13 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 2t7 4b8 | |
14 | Hung Ying Lee | TPE | 2t8 3b8 | |
15 | Ekaterina Kipriianova | RUS | 1t1 3b4 | |
16 | Monika Retschy | GER | 1t1 3b4 | |
17 | Sol Sa | KOR | 1t2 4b12 | |
18 | Berit Schwaiger | AUT | 1t4 3b6 | |
19 | Elnaz Rekabi | IRI | 1t9 2b10 | |
20 | Chloe Caulier | BEL | 0t 3b5 |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 2t3 4b7 | 4t10 4b10 |
2 | Rei Sugimoto | JPN | 2t7 3b5 | 3t6 3b4 |
3 | Aleksei Rubtsov | RUS | 2t8 3b7 | 3t9 3b8 |
4 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 2t5 4b6 | 1t1 3b9 |
5 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 2t5 4b8 | 1t1 3b11 |
6 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 2t7 4b7 | 1t1 2b2 |
7 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | JPN | 2t9 3b4 | |
8 | Keita Watabe | JPN | 1t1 4b6 | |
9 | Jernej Kruder | SLO | 1t1 3b3 | |
10 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | RUS | 1t2 3b6 | |
11 | Gholamali Baratzadeh | IRI | 1t2 3b9 | |
12 | Meichi Narasaki | JPN | 1t3 3b5 | |
13 | David Firnenburg | GER | 1t3 2b2 | |
14 | Vadim Timonov | RUS | 1t3 2b4 | |
15 | Anze Peharc | SLO | 1t7 3b7 | |
16 | Simon Unger | GER | 0t 4b15 | |
17 | Jan Hojer | GER | 0t 3b8 | |
18 | Tsukuru Hori | JPN | 0t 3b10 | |
19 | Gregor Vezonik | SLO | 0t 3b13 | |
20 | William Ridal | GBR | 0t 2b2 | |
37 | David Barrans | GBR | Qual' 1t2 3b8 |
Watch the finals replay below:
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