UKC

Evolution 8c+ by Will Bosi

18 year old Will Bosi has achieved an incredibly fast redpoint of Jerry Moffatt's rarely repeated Evolution 8c+ at Raven Tor (Miller's Dale), on his third attempt - a feat matched by Alex Megos in 2016 (UKC interview).

Will Bosi on Evolution 8c+, 220 kb
Will Bosi on Evolution 8c+
© Band of Birds

Will is currently training in Sheffield ahead of the British Bouldering Championships with strong Slovenian company. He told UKC:

'The training has been good fun, but we took a day to show the Slovenians Hubble and the rest of the Peak. Evolution has always been on my tick list as it's such a classic. My main objective has been Mutation (so the extension), but I had to do the beginning to start with.'

Commenting on the speed of his ascent, Will surprised himself:

'I was expecting to get all the moves down fairly quickly since I feel at home on the crimpy territory, but I wasn't expecting such a quick send! Just because Evolution is renowned for razor blade crimps and I had huge respect for it before attempting. The climb is absolutely amazing and it suited my style really well.'

On his first attempt, Will worked the route quickly to scope out the moves and clips. He told UKC:

'I came down thinking I had a chance on the next go and I was psyched at how good the climbing is! My second attempt was very brief - I just pulled up the start to put the rope into the second draw and came down. Third go, I was in full redpoint mode and went for every move 100%. I just managed to stick the third last move with two fingers but found the strength to get the third finger on and finish the route.'

photo
Will Bosi on his rapid repeat of Evolution 8c+
© Band of Birds

He added:

'It ended up being a very successful quick visit to The Tor - I love the place!'

Next up for Will is a shift in focus towards the competition season, with an occasional escape to the rock.

Will is sponsored by: Red Chili and Wild Country



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