UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Arco 2018: Report

The fourth IFSC Lead World Cup round of 2018 took place in Arco, Italy last weekend alongside the 6th Speed World Cup of the season. Team GB's Jim Pope and Will Bosi narrowly missed out on lead semi-finals and placed 28th and 31st respectively.

Janja Garnbret on the tricky women's final route., 223 kb
Janja Garnbret on the tricky women's final route.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Arco (ITA) 2018

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 44+ 44+
2 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 43+ 41+
3 Domen Skofic SLO 44+ 41
4 Adam Ondra CZE 44 41
5 Shuta Tanaka JPN 44+ 40+
6 Sascha Lehmann SUI 47 38+
7 Alberto Ginés López ESP 41 32+
8 Hyunbin Min KOR 39+ 23+
9 Romain Desgranges FRA 39
10 Sean Bailey USA 37+
11 Hidemasa Nishida JPN 37+
12 Alexander Megos GER 37+
13 Thomas Joannes FRA 37+
14 Yuki Hada JPN 37+
15 Taito Nakagami JPN 37+
16 Hiroto Shimizu JPN 37+
17 Loïc Timmermans BEL 37
18 Masahiro Higuchi JPN 36+
19 Max Rudigier AUT 36+
20 Marcello Bombardi ITA 36+
28 James Pope GBR Qual' 42+ 29.
31 William Bosi GBR Qual' 41 33.
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO Top 50+
2 Jessica Pilz AUT 44+ 49+
3 Anak Verhoeven BEL 40 39+
4 Claire Buhrfeind USA 41+ 33+
5 Hélène Janicot FRA 37 31
6 Manon Hily FRA 37+ 28
7 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 37 28
8 Christine Schranz AUT 43 9
9 Tjasa Kalan SLO 34+
10 Mina Markovic SLO 34+
11 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 33+
12 Stasa Gejo SRB 33+
13 Aya Onoe JPN 33+
14 Julia Chanourdie FRA 32+
15 Heloïse Doumont BEL 31
16 Mei Kotake JPN 30+
17 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 30+
18 Katharina Posch AUT 28+
19 Hannah Schubert AUT 26+
20 Katherine Choong SUI 26+
50 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 19+ 48.
51 Rhoslyn Frugtniet GBR Qual' 22+ 45.
Full results

Continuing her run of form from Briançon after a slight off-day in Chamonix, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took Gold after a gutsy fight on a complex and awkward women's final route. Jessy Pilz (AUT) reached just one move behind Janja following a stunning display of endurance. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) struggled to up her typically slow pace and was timed-out 4+ moves below Jessy's score. Following some complaints of the women's routes being too easy, the setters certainly upped their game in Arco to provide more challenging routes.

photo
Jakob Schubert passing through the stopper move to take the win.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The men's final route proved a touch too hard, however. WIth Adam Ondra in the mix for the first time this season as preparation ahead of the Innsbruck World Championships next month, the level appeared to have been raised significantly. Jakob Schubert (AUT) set a highpoint of 44+ on a route with 65 moves. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), Domen Skofic (SLO) and Adam Ondra were clustered around the 41/41+ mark on a stopper move on poor holds, which only Jakob managed to surpass with a cunning heel hook.

In the speed event, Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) took Gold in the men's category and Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) won the women's competition.



Forums 1 comments

It was a shame to see Anak Verhoeven timed out as she looked relaxed could definitely have carried on further. I also wondered about Jesse Pilz too who fell just a couple of seconds before the clock ran out. Did she...
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