UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix 2018: Report

The second IFSC Lead World Cup round of 2018 took place in Chamonix, France last weekend, alongside the 5th round of the 2018 IFSC Speed World Cup. Team GB's Will Bosi qualified for his first senior World Cup final and finished 5th in a strong field of finalists. In the same weekend, he set a new British speed record of 7.66 seconds, placing him 45th in the speed event. A huge crowd of thousands of spectators filled the Place du Mont Blanc in the atmospheric setting of the Chamonix valley.

Jain Kim on the tricky headwall., 139 kb
Jain Kim on the tricky headwall.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Will is the first British senior male to make a World Cup finals since Ian Vickers' 6th place in Milan in 1998 - the year Will was born! Last year, Molly Thompson-Smith placed 3rd and Shauna Coxsey placed 6th in Kranj, Slovenia, while Hannah Slaney placed 7th in the Edinburgh round. Emily Phillips made significant progress in Chamonix compared to last weekend in Villars, jumping from 49th to 38th place in the space of a week.

Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Chamonix (FRA) 2018

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 43+ Top
2 Jakob Schubert AUT 50 48+
3 Alexander Megos GER 45+ 46+
4 Domen Skofic SLO 33+ 46+
5 William Bosi GBR 33+ 43+
6 Shuta Tanaka JPN 32 43+
7 Taisei Homma JPN 33 40+
8 Sascha Lehmann SUI 40 30+
9 Jakub Konecny CZE 32
10 Sean Bailey USA 31+
11 Francesco Vettorata ITA 31
12 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 30+
13 Marcello Bombardi ITA 30+
14 Sebastian Halenke GER 30
15 Yannick Flohé GER 29+
16 Hannes Puman SWE 29+
17 Keita Dohi JPN 29+
18 Hyunbin Min KOR 29+
19 Yuki Hada JPN 29
20 Kokoro Fujii JPN 28+
55 James Pope GBR Qual' 35+ 33.
86 David Barrans GBR Qual' 17+ 97.
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jessica Pilz AUT 47+ Top
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 44 50+
3 Jain Kim KOR 41+ 48+
4 Ashima Shiraishi USA 40+ 44
5 Mei Kotake JPN 43+ 42+
6 Anak Verhoeven BEL 43+ 41
7 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 40+ 40+
8 Hannah Schubert AUT 40+ 40+
9 Tjasa Kalan SLO 40+
10 Manon Hily FRA 40
11 Vita Lukan SLO 40
12 Mina Markovic SLO 40
13 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 38+
14 Miho Nonaka JPN 37+
14 Salomé Romain FRA 37+
16 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 36+
17 Nina Arthaud FRA 36+
17 Aya Onoe JPN 36+
19 Claire Buhrfeind USA 36+
20 Katharina Posch AUT 36+
38 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 35 49.
42 Hannah Slaney GBR Qual' 36+ 44.
73 Rhoslyn Frugtniet GBR Qual' 29+ 66.
75 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 31+ 65.
Full results

Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) won his first gold medal since Wujiang last year, ahead of Jakob Schubert (AUT) and Alex Megos (GER). Austria's Jessy Pilz won her first ever gold in an IFSC lead event, having frequently placed 2nd behind either Janja Garnbret (SLO) or Jain Kim (KOR). In the speed events, Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) took gold with a time of 6.08 seconds ahead of Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) with 6.31 seconds, while in the women's category a shock result came as Anouck Jaubert (FRA) and Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) were both knocked out before the 1/4 final round. Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) won with a time of 7.47 seconds ahead of Anna Tsyganova (RUS) with 7.75 seconds.

Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) topped to take the win., 206 kb
Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) topped to take the win.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Both Stefano and Jessy were the only climbers in their categories to top the final route, with Janja coming exceedingly close and dropping the last move.

Ghisolfi takes Gold ahead of Schubert and Megos., 162 kb
Ghisolfi takes Gold ahead of Schubert and Megos.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Jessy appeared on top form throughout the competition, having qualified in 1st place for the final after the semi-finals with a good margin over Janja in 2nd place. Jain climbed smoothly up to the headwall to take 3rd place.

Jessy Pilz earns her first Gold medal., 237 kb
Jessy Pilz earns her first Gold medal.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Will Bosi lingered in the top 3 positions for a good while after a confident final climb, in which he smiled and grinned at the crowd throughout - clearly he was enjoying his first final! WIth a score of 43+, he was just three moves behind Alex Megos and Domen Skofic (SLO). Before the final, Will told UKC: 'I'm really happy. I wanted to make semis this year and I didn't think I'd make finals! I don't think I'll be a consistent finalist so I'm just going to enjoy it!'

Watch a live video of Will climbing in the finals below - complete with atmosphere/shouting!

Will now hopes to compete in the full IFSC lead circuit and the combined event at the World Championships in Innsbruck in September, with some trips to Europe's best sport crags in-between.

The next round is in Briançon, France this weekend.



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