UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Villars: Report

The first IFSC Lead World Cup round of 2018 took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend, alongside the 4th round of the 2018 IFSC Speed World Cup. Team GB was represented by William Bosi (33rd), Jim Pope (52nd) and Emily Phillips (49th).

USA climber Ashima Shiraishi competing in Villars., 228 kb
USA climber Ashima Shiraishi competing in Villars.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Villars (SUI) 2018

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 30+ 38+
2 Romain Desgranges FRA 29+ 38+
3 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 28+ 33+
4 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 28+ 33+
5 Max Rudigier AUT Top 32+
6 Hyunbin Min KOR 30 22+
7 Domen Skofic SLO 29+ 22+
8 Yuki Hada JPN 28+ 22+
9 Alexander Megos GER 28+
10 Kokoro Fujii JPN 28+
11 Hannes Puman SWE 26+
12 Shuta Tanaka JPN 25+
13 Loïc Timmermans BEL 23+
14 Minoru Nakano JPN 23+
15 Luka Potocar SLO 22+
16 Taisei Homma JPN 21+
17 Sascha Lehmann SUI 21
18 Yannick Flohé GER 21
19 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 20+
20 Gautier Supper FRA 20+
33 William Bosi GBR Qual' 22+ 24.
52 James Pope GBR Qual' 8 79.
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 46 44+
2 Jessica Pilz AUT 44+ 42
3 Jain Kim KOR 43 41+
4 Manon Hily FRA 36+ 36+
5 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 36+ 35+
6 Miho Nonaka JPN 37+ 32+
7 Mei Kotake JPN 37 31+
8 Ashima Shiraishi USA 35+ 31+
9 Tjasa Kalan SLO 35+
9 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 35+
9 Vita Lukan SLO 35+
12 Julia Chanourdie FRA 35+
13 Aya Onoe JPN 35+
14 Mia Krampl SLO 35+
15 Julia Fiser AUT 35
16 Hannah Schubert AUT 34+
17 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 32+
18 Futaba Ito JPN 30+
19 Mina Markovic SLO 29+
20 Christine Schranz AUT 29+
49 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 31+ 42.
Full results

Jan Hojer of Germany is competing in lead once again this year., 147 kb
Jan Hojer of Germany is competing in lead once again this year.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Janja Garnbret of Slovenia and Austria's Jakob Schubert finished the 2017 Lead season in Kranj with gold medals, and both star athletes picked up where they left off on Saturday night. The men's final route curved across the wall, and most athletes took advantage of a heel-hook rest before attacking large pinches defending the headwall. 2017 runner-up Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) began the round by climbing into the first technical moves of the final section for a provisional lead. Reigning Combined season champion Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) matched the score for a Bronze medal on countback to qualifications. Romain Desgranges dominated the static moves preceding the final lunge, and Schubert fell leaping to the same high point to win the event on countback to semi-finals.

The women's final featured dynamic moves halfway up the wall, followed by precise positioning on tiny crimps leading into the upper panel. Manon Hily (FRA) set the high point in her first IFSC World Cup final before three athletes reached higher. Jain Kim (KOR) executed a figure four to surpass the dynamic section and fall at the final crimp, controlled by Jessica Pilz (AUT) for Bronze. The final athlete to climb in Villars, Janja Garnbret, completed a 180 degree spin, dangling by one arm, followed by a campus move. The 2017 Lead and Combined season champion calmly chalked-up amidst the challenging crimps in the last section and fell below the Top for the victory.

Anouck Jaubert and Aleksandr Shikov took Gold in the speed events.

The 2nd Lead and 5th Speed events of the 2018 season will take place in Chamonix, France, on July 11th -13th.



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