Alex Puccio has climbed Heritage, a Carlo Traversi Font 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland. This was Puccio's fifth climb graded 8B+ after previously climbing Jade, The Wheel of Chaos, New Baseline and The Penrose Step.
In her own words, Puccio describes how she has been 'pretty out of shape' and was apprehensive about attempting the problem. Eventually, the allure was too great and she starting working on the boulder. After battling temperatures of up to 23C whilst figuring out the moves, a cool and breezy day arrived and she managed to contain her excitement enough to climb the boulder.
Last day best day!!! So psyched to have climbed "Heritage" V14/ 8B+ in Val Bavona Switzerland 🇨🇭!!! 😆 I have been pretty out of shape for me and still have a lot of work to do to get back where I was, this is why I didn't try Heritage for the first few weeks of my trip. I then decided to try it because it was always on my list of climbs I wanted to do and my friends were most psyched for this area. Well I definitely surprised myself when I was falling grabbing the hold at the lip on day 3! This happens 2 times this day with one try on the hold. The last move isn't suppose to be that hard, but at my height you can't use the normal left foot hold that makes the move not so bad. Instead I had to use a really high, and too high for me even, foot that made me be in this weird balled up position where then I had to punch to the last hold before the top out. The weather was highs of 17-23C / 62-73F everyday with sun and not much wind at all and the boulder sits down in a area that doesn't really get air flow. After the "colder" day where I got really close I thought it would happen next day, but the weather got sooo hot and really humid! I was having trouble just staying on the holds and not greasing off. Finally on the last day It because a bit breezy and had some cloud coverage. The high was still at 17-18C/ 62-64F, But the breeze made it way less humid! For my warm up I decided to do the top half one time and then I sat for a few minutes to chill. I looked at the climb and had a special feeling. I didn't want to overthink it or psych myself out, but I had a feeling where I knew it was time. For my second try I decided to go from the start and the magic happened! I was standing on top of the boulder!!! 😄😆😁🙏 Thank you @westmountainmedia , @dawoods89 and @robinoleary for coming out all those days I didn't send for support. I definitely got frustrated from time to time when the first few moves felt hard because of the humidity. 😂 @petzl_official @scarpana @frictionlabs
Writing on her 8a.nu scorecard, Puccio said: "Wow…. psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn't even warm up. Last day best day! This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gaston and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can't use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!"
In total, Puccio has climbed 31 Font 8Bs or harder, making her one of the most impressive boulderers in the world. She has been climbing at a high level since 2006 when she climbed her first Font 8A and has made steady progress since.
Heritage was first climbed by Carlo Traversi in 2012 and has been repeated by Nalle Hukkataival, Bernd Zangerl, Christof Rauch, Martin Keller and Paul Robinson.
Here's a short film of Christof Rauch climbing the problem: