Maddy Cope climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b/E9

© Jacopo Larcher

Maddy Cope has climbed Prinzip Hoffnung (F8b+/E9/10) at  Burs in Austria. The route has seen a great deal of attention recently, with Michi Wohlleben and Nadine Wallner both climbing the route in the past two weeks. Maddy is no stranger to hard, bold slab climbing. In 2018, she climbed Once Upon a Time in the South West – Dave Birkett's E9 6c at  Dyers Lookout.

Maddy has been on a van trip in Europe with her partner Ryan for several months now. They spent the spring sport climbing around Lleida where Maddy redpointed Mind Control at  Oliana, her second of the grade and a significant step in her recovery from a chronic shoulder injury.

Maddy Cope - Prinzip Hoffnung  © Maddy Cope
Maddy told UKC: 'After sport climbing around Lleida, I was ready for a change of scene. My arms were tired from the Spanish steepness, so a slab seemed like a good option.'

The pair had climbed at  Voralpsee last Autumn where Ryan made a quick ascent of Speed Intégrale (9a) and Prinzip Hoffnung is not too far from the area.

'We went to Bludenz for dinner with friends and they mentioned that we might like Prinzip Hoffnung since it is Brit style trad. It was really hot and humid, but I had a go on top rope and did all the moves and was hooked on the idea of returning to try and do it. I had seen pictures of Beat (Kammerlander) on the route and watched a video of Babsi (Zangerl) climbing it. It's one of those funny things where you see your hero's doing it but don't imagine you would actually try it.'

The route was first climbed by Beat Kammerlander in 2009. It weighs in at around F8b/+ and is protected by several microwires. He originally climbed the route on bolts but returned a decade after the first ascent and climbed it without. The grade of this climb has always been estimated at F8b/8b+ or E9/E10, but Maddy thinks it's roughly 8b/E9 to place the wires on lead.

Due to the high temperatures, Maddy was forced to work the route in the late evening and at night and she attempted her first lead in the dark by headtorch! She took several large falls before climbing the route:

'In the end, I decided to get up at 5 ready to try it at first light when the rock wasn't hot from being in the sun all day. It's never that nice trying hard that early but it was worth it! It was fun to take a couple of falls before doing it - it's pretty safe but the moves are insecure, and you definitely go quite far!'

After climbing Mind Control and now Prinzip Hoffnung, hopefully Maddy's shoulder is on the mend. Her aim for 2019 is to build up shoulder stability and try to stay injury free.

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Maddy has made a name for herself on hard and bold trad climbing. She has made ascents of Dave Birkett's Once Upon a Time in the South West (E9 6c) and Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung...

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2 Apr, 2019

8b+ on trad, waddage.

2 Apr, 2019

Maddy reckoned closer to 8b when placing the wires. Beast.

2 Apr, 2019

8b on trad, Waddage!

3 Apr, 2019

Trad grades adopted by Europe!!!!

3 Apr, 2019

This is brilliant. Looks like an amazing line and route.

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