This first episode of our new lockdown training panel discussion features Neil Gresham, Maddy Cope and Louis Parkinson talking about motivation for training during lockdown.
They discuss what lessons they learnt from the first lockdown, both from themselves and the people they work with; how did lockdown work in terms of overcoming motivational hurdles? Did they see improvements? Was there a silver lining to lockdown training? Are there any pitfalls such as injuries, or a decline in general well-being?
Finally, the team give their advice for climbers who want to make a difference to their performance during this new lockdown, with the benefit of their wealth of knowledge and hindsight.
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Return to Latest NewsNeil has performed at a high level in every discipline from Deep Water Soloing to Sport, Ice and Traditional climbing for over two decades. In the UK he made the third ascent of Indian Face (E9 6c) in 1995 and the second...
Maddy has made a name for herself on hard and bold trad climbing. She has made ascents of Dave Birkett's Once Upon a Time in the South West (E9 6c) and Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung...
Louis's Athlete Page 3 posts 2 videos
Athletes:
2020 will be a year that most will hastily forget, with COVID-19 overshadowing the majority of the year. With much of the UK locked down throughout 2020, it's a wonder that we have much to reflect upon at all in our annual roundup.
Neil Gresham has completed his three-year project on Iron Crag in the Lake District to create Final Score E10 7a. The line climbs directly up the middle of the severely overhanging main wall at Iron Crag. The direct start was...
Maddy Cope has repeated Tom Randall's The Final Round E9 6c on Ilam Rock at Dovedale. This is only the third ascent after Jordan Buys' first repeat in 2016.
Neil Gresham has put his post-lockdown motivation to good use and climbed two new routes on Iron Crag, Thirlmere...
This week's Friday Night Video follows indoor strongman Louis Parkinson to Japan. Louis laps in the Japanese...
Maddy Cope has climbed Prinzip Hoffnung (F8b/+/E9/10) at Burs in Austria. The route has seen a great deal of attention...
Neil Gresham gets to grips with handholds: Page-one of climbing technique is making the best use of the holds, and this...
Lockdown Training
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Comments
I really enjoyed this discussion and got a lot out of it.
Really enjoyed this. Three very articulate and thoughtful climbers offering wide-ranging views on the current situation that we're all in. There's plenty of high quality advice and insight in this one-hour discussion that should endure well beyond lockdown.
Great to have a balance of male/female perspectives as well.
Lots more of this kind of thing please!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comments.
Next week's episode is on fingerboarding - if you've got any questions for Neil, Maddy or Louis feel free to get in touch and we'll get them answered on the show.
Nick
Hi Nick
I have a question that I think would be interesting (hopefully!).
I have always thought that fingerboarding was discouraged until you reach a certain grade. In my head this was maybe around V5/6, though I’m not sure where I got this from. I have personally got to V5 ish with just climbing a lot - and no fingerboarding whatsoever, though to progress above this I would need to work on my sloper strength for example.
Is this view generally still held? It was definitely the prevailing view at my local wall maybe 4 or 5 years ago. Obviously because we can’t actually climb inside atm it’s not possible to progress in this way, but I think the general message was that with fingerboarding you’re more likely to injure yourself/ it doesn’t really benefit you that much if you can’t climb at a certain grade.
I don’t actually have any sources to quote - just general hearsay and chat! Would be good to know whether this is actually right or not!
This was great content. Can't wait for more like this.