In this week's Ticklist, we have our customary ascents from Rocky Mountain National Park, a new problem from the on-form Aidan Roberts and a desperate new multi-pitch in the Dolomites...
First Ascents by Isabelle Faus
Boulder-based Isabelle Faus has been adding some hard first ascents to her already impressive back catalogue. At Pine Cliff, she added the highball Sinwav, grading it Font 8B+ and Glitter Addict which she gave 8B.
Although her main focus is finding and cleaning new problems, she also spends time repeating problems. Recently she ticked Daniel Woods' Crème de la Crumb Sit (Font 8B+) and Circle Jerk (Font 8B).
New Lakes 8B by Aidan Roberts
Aidan Roberts has climbed a new problem at Swarthbeck Gill/ Ravens Crag Boulders which tackles a slight variation to Dan Varian's Colonel Hathi (Font 8A+). The new problem, Hathi Jr., adds a sit move and finishes to the left of the main face via a bold move to the lip which Aidan describes as 'a no-fall-zone.'
He described the problem as 'a great fusion of hard, basic, safe moves and easier slightly less safe moves for a bit of a thrill to finish. 8B seems fair.'
For weeks now, Aidan has been in the form of his life, repeating hard problems up and down the country, not to mention putting up some of his own, including one of the hardest problems in the country - Superpower (Font 8C/+).
Hathi Jr.- First Ascent Originally not on my radar as a project I was looking to try but, whilst there with friends a few weeks ago, it seemed rude not to give is a shot and I was happy with the final product. It adds a sit move and an ending up the left side of the main face, finishing with a bold launch to the lip over a no-fall-zone (maybe... I didn't fancy finding out anyway). A great fusion of hard, basic, safe moves and easier slightly less safe moves for a bit of a thrill to finish. 8B seems fair. Cheers @hamishpotokar for the spot and @samm_pratt capturing the aesthetic location of this boulder 👍🏼
New Dolomites Multi-pitch
Alessandro Zeni has combined the first two pitches of Cani Morti on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Dolomites, to create an 8c pitch and in the process making it one of the hardest multi-pitches in Europe. The route was first climbed in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla and Riccardo Scarian in a ground-up effort.
Zeni repeated the line in August and combined an 8b+ and 8a+ to create the 8c pitch which was nearly 60m with only 8 bolts...
Daniel Woods Repeats Blade Runner
31-year-old Daniel Woods has ticked Giuliano Cameroni's Blade Runner (Font 8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Unusually for this time of year, he had to wait until 10pm for the temperature to be cool enough for the tiny crimps.
Woods described the problem as having 'great rock, great moves, [and a] miserable crux crimp.'
The problem is on the Green 45 wall, the same as Woods' problem Jade (Font 8B+). Cameroni climbed Blade Runner in June 2019 and has also been repeated by Matt Fult and Ben Burkhalter.
Blade Runner (8C/v15) Great rock, great moves, miserable crux crimp. This line was put up by my friend @giuliano_cameroni a couple years back. It is situated to the left of an iconic crimp bloc called "jade" that I put up when I was 17. The crux involves taking a left hand sharp as fuck button grip and doing a near iron cross move to a half pad flat edge. Having perfect friction and skin to connect this move from the start was a mental nightmare. Since global warming has fucked up the seasons, (unusually hot weather remains in the high country at the end of sept!) I had to wait until 10 pm at night just to have a chance. Speaking of global warming this is also a friendly reminder to all my US friends to vote Biden/Harris into office and remove our current clown 🤡. Serious change needs to happen in the US and it all starts with having the right people in place to make it happen. This is important. VOTE!!!! Photos by @gajdaphotography